When I think of Yumen Pass, the line that immediately comes to mind is: "The Yellow River flows far away among white clouds, a solitary city nestles on a thousand-foot mountain. Why should the Qiang flute complain about the willows? The spring breeze never reaches Yumen Pass." After visiting Yumen Pass, I truly felt this poem.
Yumen Pass, said to be named after the jade from the ancient Western Regions (such as Hotan) that entered the Central Plains through this pass, was built during the Han Dynasty, when Emperor Wu opened the route to the Western Regions and established the "Four Commanderies of Hexi." It was not only a crucial military pass during the Han Dynasty but also a vital chokepoint on the northern route of the Silk Road. Currently, only three ruins remain:
1. Xiaofangpancheng Ruins—a square earthen fortress with relatively intact walls, it once served as the seat of the Yumen Commandery during the Han Dynasty and formed the core of Yumen Pass's defense system. 2. Hecang City Ruins (Dafangpan City) — This important military depot on the western defense line (of the Great Wall) from the Han Dynasty to the Wei and Jin Dynasties provided food, clothing, and other supplies to soldiers guarding Yumen Pass, Yangguan Pass, and the Great Wall.
3. Han Dynasty Great Wall Ruins — This section of the Han Dynasty Great Wall, dating back over 2,000 years, is one of China's oldest surviving Great Walls. Unlike the brick and stone construction of the Ming Dynasty Great Wall, the Han Dynasty Great Wall was largely constructed using locally sourced materials, with layers of red willow, reeds, and sandstone rammed earth. Although it resembles an earthen embankment, its historical value is unparalleled.
There are no magnificent palaces, no shady trees, and no entertainment facilities here; what you see is the authentic face of history. As the sun sets and dusk falls, you gaze upon the ruins, standing alone in the vast Gobi Desert, surrounded by the boundless expanse of heaven and earth. As you touch the loess walls, eroded by millennia of wind and sand, desolation, vastness, loneliness, and endless nostalgia all surge, instantly transporting you back to an era of war and battle. Rereading that poem, I can't help but weep. The first two lines are so majestic and heroic, while the last two express untold helplessness and sacrifice. Yumen Pass made me feel the weight of history and the power of time, offering me a profoundly moving and soul-stirring experience.