Nolhi Escape

My 21-day stay at Nolhi Escape in January was a delightful experience. My room was large, well air-conditioned and comfortable and the staff cleaned it whenever I asked. There is plenty of hot water, the guesthouse has a lush garden and is quiet (you can hear the prayers from a nearby mosque five times a day, but they never woke me). Nolhivaranfaru, the small island on which Nolhi Escape is located, isn't the place for someone seeking a resort experience -- there are few tourists, no large resorts, water huts, slides, adventure parks, etc., and you may see an ant or a harmless spider or two -- but it is a safe, serene, hospitable place that is virtually untouched by development other than the small homes of the residents, who mostly live by fishing and farming. Nature surrounds you on the island -- you will likely spot the red-eyed koel bird with its unmistakable loud call, the white-breasted waterhen (the national bird of the Maldives), flying foxes (bats), which come out in the evening and are wonderful to photograph, and hermit crabs and other shelled creatures along the beach. The island offers a look at Maldivian life before the grand resorts and troops of tourists arrived. Nolhi Escape is just steps (about 2 minutes) from the island's beautiful uncrowded white sand beach with its warm turquoise waters. I found myself swimming alone on many days! Technically, no bikinis are permitted on this island, but for those who must, just a short walk down the beach is a "bikini beach" near a small resort/guesthouse that also offers a small PADI dive shop. The staff of Nolhi Escape -- Sobah and Ali -- will do all they can to ensure that your stay is perfect. They will arrange trips via speedboat to nearby islands if you wish (I went to Utheemu to see a sultan's former home and saw some flying fish along the way!), arrange a beachside BBQ, help you book a ferry ticket or be there to help with any wi-fi issues. (Wi-fi is very reliable at the resort!) Both were happy to educate me about the island, its sights and people and about the Maldives generally. Ali is an amazing chef, who will cook to your preference. The meals he prepares are plentiful, delicious and healthy. I'm a pescatarian, and he dished up pastas, rice with vegetables, plantains, whole fresh fish, fish curry (the best!), roasted potatoes, fresh salads, pizza and juicy papaya, served with warm roshi (a Maldivian flatbread, which Ali even taught me to cook!!). My breakfasts included french toast, pancakes, eggs, toast and more, all served with tea and varied juices. Ali also made some great flan and lovely Maldivian banana and coconut desserts. The guesthouse provided me with a bicycle, and it was a delight to bike around the small island meeting the residents, who were all welcoming. There are a few small stores where you can stop for a canned mocha latte or other drink and a snack and a few small cafes (I got a great pizza and an alcohol-less blueberry mojito at Food Bite!!). There is