Natsuse Onsen Miyakowasure

As luxurious as one can expect. Beautiful place in a secluded natural environment with lavish service and delicious food. The bath are very well prepared and the staff is extremely kind and attentive. It is a hard ask but it would be nice to have some western options at breakfast. But of course this is a Japanese traditional inn yet these options would feel even more luxurious. Some of the decoration feels a bit either dated, kitsch or not being harmonious, I think they need a redesign of the furnitures are it looks more like an assemblage than a harmonious selection of decoration and furnitures. It’s a little on the weird side even sometimes! But the bedding is exceptional. You will have a great sleep at this stay!

Natsuse Onsen Miyakowasure is truly remote. Although technically situated in Semboku — home to both Lake Tazawa and the historic town of Kakunodate with its award-winning luxury ryokan, Wabizakura — it feels far removed from civilization. The drive from Kakunodate takes over 30 minutes, and Lake Tazawa is about 45 minutes away. A key factor is the 4km gravel road leading to the ryokan: narrow, winding, and flanked by steep embankments. As tempting as it is to admire the hypnotic beauty of the Kamishirochosei Reservoir and its surrounding landscape, keep your eyes on the road — there’s little margin for error. Miyakowasure's seclusion is absolute: the gravel road is a dead-end, beyond which lies only a dam and power station another 2km away. The sense of serenity is immediate. Upon arrival, we stepped out of the car and were struck by the absence of buildings, power lines, or traffic noise. Just nature. Just peace. For those less inclined to adventurous driving, Miyakowasure offers a shuttle service from both Kakunodate Station and Mori no Eki (which also provides free parking). This is highly recommended during winter, as the drive could be downright perilous — even with chains. The name "Miyakowasure" draws from two inspirations: first, it's a reference to the purple tea flowers blooming in the central garden; second, it evokes the phrase "forget the capital," a nod to leaving behind the pace and politics of Kyoto in favor of deep tranquility. The 10-room property is charming, with vibrant hydrangeas (in full bloom during our visit), sakura trees, and onsen fountains dotting the grounds. A short walking trail invites guests to explore the lush surroundings. The inner courtyard features a dry rock garden and additional sakura. I can only imagine the seasonal transformations — especially during cherry blossom and autumn foliage. Indoors, however, things become a bit discordant. The combination of traditional Japanese architecture with flamboyant Edwardian furnishings is jarring. Sadly, this theme extends to the guest rooms. We stayed in the Kihinshitsu (VIP Room) "Kusabue," the ryokan’s top accommodation. The layout included a carpeted Western-style living room, a tatami room, and a wash area with a single sink. The futon setup — where tables and chairs are pushed aside during dinner — is something we've never warmed to. A dedicated bedroom would be ideal. The living room, meanwhile, featured a chandelier, a glittery multi-colored lamp, and furniture that has clearly aged. It's evident the rooms haven't been renovated since the ryokan opened in 2005, and they're certainly showing it. Fortunately, the onsen experience is where Miyakowasure shines. Each room boasts a gensen kakenagashi rotenburo — an open-air bath fed directly and continuously from the source. Nine rooms overlook the Tama River, while one offers only a mountain view. Kusabue is the sole room with both indoor and outdoor baths, a valuable amenity in colder months. The outdoor

the staff does a really good job at making you feel like home, every moment of our stay was really memorable. highly recommended.

Perfect spot to get rid of the city life