Cape Breton Highlands National Park: The Jewel of Canada's Maritimes
Cape Breton Highlands National Park is one of the most worthwhile natural scenic areas in Nova Scotia and the heart of the Cabot Trail loop. I spent five days and four nights here, and it was easily the highlight of my entire trip.
🌊 What is its most striking feature?
Simply put: "Highlands + Cliffs + Atlantic + Forest + Bays."
Located at the northern tip of Cape Breton Island along the Cabot Trail, the park features forest-covered highlands on one side and sudden, breathtaking coastal cliffs meeting the Atlantic on the other. That "edge of the world" feeling is truly captivating.
⭐ Top Must-See Spots
1. Skyline Trail — A Must-Visit
This is the most iconic hike in the entire park. Remember to book your parking spot in advance and pay the parking fee ($13 CAD). When booking, you also need to select an entry time, which lasts for four hours; I chose 4:00 PM to catch the most beautiful sunset hours.
· Difficulty: Easy
· The highlight isn't the climb, but the massive coastal cliffs you see once you reach the ridge.
· There is a wooden boardwalk stretching along the cliff's edge.
· Watching the sunset here is particularly stunning.
2. Pleasant Bay
Located on the west side of the Cabot Trail along the Gulf of St. Lawrence, this is one of Cape Breton's most famous departure points for whale watching.
In the summer, you can often spot:
· Humpback whales
· Fin whales
· Minke whales
· Pilot whales
· Dolphins, and more.
We saw seals swimming in the ocean, very close to the shore. I've seen lazy seals sunbathing on land in places like California, but seeing them swim so playfully felt like a first.
We passed through the northern part quickly without exploring deeply. However, once we reached the east side, there were surprises everywhere. We saw plenty of animals, including five or six seals and various species of seabirds (we even saw them diving for fish). Among them was a female or molting sub-adult Harlequin Duck—standing on the rocks, beautiful in her own way, and not ugly at all. [playful]
We stumbled upon a few hidden gem parking spots with very few tourists, which were also where we spotted the most wildlife:
@White Point Harbour
@Neils Harbour Lighthouse
@Green Cove
@Lakies Head
The second location was the most rewarding. Behind the lighthouse, there is a place called the Chowder House; their seafood chowder and fish and chips are both excellent. After eating, be sure to head to the lawn out front, where you can spot many animals. 😄
🏠 Regarding Accommodation
Cheticamp is the most convenient place to stay on the west side of the park, with supermarkets and gas stations for supplies. However, accommodation is limited. I booked about a month in advance and only one poorly-rated motel was left. Fearing the conditions might ruin the experience, I stayed at Margaree Harbour, about a 20-minute drive away.
On the east side, there are many choices. I stayed one night in Ingonish and another in Baddeck—a town where almost everyone stops when entering the park from the east.
If you run into a rainy day ☔️, find a cafe and order a "London Fog." The "Fog" in the name usually doesn't refer to a coffee blend, but a classic "tea latte." The classic London Fog is based on Earl Grey tea, which has a citrusy bergamot aroma. It uses concentrated Earl Grey tea, vanilla syrup, and is topped with thick, hot steamed milk (similar to the foam on a latte).
Why is it called "Fog"? Because when the hot milk hits the dark tea, it creates swirling textures that look like clouds, resembling a misty afternoon in London.
We happened to encounter such a rainy day. We didn't just drink a London Fog; we enjoyed the actual "Cape Breton fog" as well. 😜
Near Baddeck, you will pass Colaisde na Gàidhlig | The Gaelic College. It is the only non-profit college in North America dedicated to preserving and promoting Scottish Highland Gaelic culture, language, music, and traditional crafts. We happened to see someone practicing the bagpipes on the lawn; the soaring melody reached our ears and was a perfect match for the weather.
Later, we wandered onto a lakeside path and saw a couple walking ahead, both wearing tall rain boots—it was perfect. Somehow, the whole scene felt incredibly British.