The beauty of Hokkaido is hidden in places unreachable by JR trains
JR is the preferred way to travel in Japan, except in Hokkaido.
In the vast and sparsely populated north, with JR lines being discontinued year after year, the beauty of the land has been returned to the wilderness. If riding the JR only shows you the refined Japanese side of Hokkaido, then a road trip will unlock the distant, lonely northern wilderness.
🚗 Summer is coming soon
As the heavy snow melts and trails become easier to walk, everything green in Hokkaido’s brief summer rushes to grow. It’s the perfect time for a northern road trip!
① Shiretoko Utoro + Rausu
All the mystery and beauty of Hokkaido are connected to "Shiretoko." This is the land’s end, with continuous coastline and distant mountain shadows, appearing even greener in summer.
As the area with the highest density of bear sightings in the world (bar none), hiking in Shiretoko is always full of the unknown: you want to see bears but also fear they might really come... If you find the Five Lakes too crowded, the other side of the peninsula, Rausu, offers quieter wilderness and more expansive coastline.
② Shibetsu Notsuke Peninsula
Notsuke Peninsula is a sandbar stretching deep into the sea, shaped like a slender hook. Far from towns, its vast desolate landscape has become a paradise for wildlife.
The 3 km round-trip trail starting from the Nature Center offers encounters with seagulls, foxes, and mysterious Ezo deer herds, which lightly step in arcs on the water as you look back.
③ Akkeshi Bekanbeushi Wetlands
This is a river untouched by human intervention, with water flowing wildly. From the air, the water system spreads like wild grass, leaving patchy lakes scattered like the aftermath of a party.
Next to the wetlands is the "Akkeshi Waterfowl Observation Center," a base for scientists studying wetland ecology and the starting point for canoeing. Departing from the shore, drifting downstream while observing aquatic plants, migratory birds, and animals is truly refreshing.
④ Lake Kussharo Mount Mokoto
Compared to the more famous Cape Mihoro, Mount Mokoto offers a better vantage point overlooking Lake Kussharo. Hiking up, you can see the lake’s deep blue water and the vast eastern Hokkaido landscape slowly unfolding before your eyes.
It takes only an hour to reach the summit from the "Koshimizu 725" parking lot, with an easy ridge climb. Many locals also come here for weekend outings.
⑤ Koshimizu Sakura Falls
No paved roads and very hard to find. But in the last weeks of summer, it becomes lively: it’s salmon migration season.
Standing on the shore, staring at the shallow stream, every few dozen seconds a salmon leaps out of the water and flies right onto the waterfall. But don’t get too absorbed—besides humans, bears in the forest might also be standing nearby, ready for a meal.
🅿️ Roadside rest areas are scattered everywhere, offering various local specialties: sea salt ice cream from Abashiri, salmon from Rausu, oysters from Akkeshi... The beauty of Hokkaido is hidden in these corners.