Hokkaido | Notsuke Peninsula, see herds of deer at the end of the wind
The biggest surprise of my trip to eastern Hokkaido was the Notsuke Peninsula.
The Notsuke Peninsula is a long, narrow sandy spit extending into the Sea of Okhotsk. It is about 26 km long and was formed by currents transporting sand and gravel over thousands of years. On a map, it looks like a shrimp reaching into the sea.
The bay where the Notsuke Peninsula is located is called Notsuke Bay, which is listed under the Ramsar Convention on Wetlands. It is a niche, pristine treasure in eastern Hokkaido, with far fewer tourists than the Shiretoko Peninsula.
🗺️ Two core highlights of Notsuke Peninsula
🌾 Wetlands and wildlife
The Notsuke Peninsula is surrounded by the sea on both sides. The peninsula is mainly composed of grasslands, tidal flats, and wetlands. Without the obstruction of tall mountains, the sea wind howls all year round, earning it the name "End of the Wind."
The boardwalk extending from the Nature Center took us directly into a lush sea of wetland grass. With mist covering the area and the vast sky and earth, we saw herds of Ezo deer amidst the wind-blown grass.
About 300–450 Ezo deer inhabit the Notsuke Peninsula year-round. On the green grassland, they lowered their heads to graze peacefully, occasionally straightening their necks to look at us. They were slender, standing only 2–3 meters away from us, with fuzzy, upright, and ethereal antlers. They were wild yet noble, so beautiful it left us speechless.
🌊 Coastal boardwalk and dead trees
Walking out of the grass sea, you reach the long coastal wooden boardwalk. At the end of the boardwalk, there is a patch of pale, dead trees.
This was once a dense Sakhalin fir forest. Due to land subsidence, seawater continuously invaded, causing the entire forest to be eroded and die. It left behind patches of pale, weathered dead tree roots and trunks scattered on the grassland and tidal flats. It is desolate and bleak, known as the disappearing scenery.
⚠️ The disappearing Notsuke Peninsula
As waves continue to erode the sandbar, geologists estimate that the end of the Notsuke Peninsula could be swallowed by the sea within 100 years, making it a landscape that is currently disappearing.
At the Notsuke Peninsula Nature Center, you can get a trail map to learn about the sandbar's geology and wetland ecology. The Nature Center is also the starting point for hiking and has an on-site restaurant where you can dine.
Arriving at the same time as us was a group of elderly Japanese tourists. The seniors wore brightly colored windbreakers and walked vigorously ahead of us. In the cold, gloomy mist and the chilly expanse of heaven and earth, that splash of bright color, scattered like stars on the trail, became a vivid and warm memory of the journey.
🚗 Travel tips
Location: Notsuke Peninsula, Betsukai Town, Notsuke District, Hokkaido, Japan
How to get there: Take the Akan Bus [Shiretoko-Kushiro Go], which stops at the Notsuke Peninsula
Duration: The trail is about 1.3 km long, and the hike takes about 30–45 minutes round trip
How to explore: Hiking, or take a sightseeing tractor
Best season: May–October; there are drift ice landscapes in winter, but some trails are closed
Safety reminder: Do not feed wild animals, and do not enter undeveloped areas