Zhangye Is More Than Just the Colorful Danxia|Three Days Under the Qilian Mountains
🏜️ Zhangye Is More Than Just the Colorful Danxia|Packing the Qilian Mountains into Three Days
The first time I went to Zhangye, I only visited the Colorful Danxia, saw the four big characters "Color Like Cinnabar," took nine photos of the Danxia colors from different angles, and forgot about it after posting on social media.
The second time, I got to know Zhangye anew: beyond the Danxia, under the Qilian Mountains lies one of China’s most underrated travel experiences.
This time, I divided Zhangye into "three parts"—the Danxia section, the grotto section, and the grassland section. Three days, each with its own character.
· —Transportation——
Fly into Zhangye Ganzhou Airport, then take a 30 km taxi ride to the Colorful Danxia Scenic Area in the city. Or come by high-speed train from Xining; Zhangye West Station is an important stop on the Lanzhou-Xinjiang line.
Must-Do List
① Binggou Danxia (A Must-Visit)
Fewer people, wilder scenery. If the Colorful Danxia is a "palette," Binggou Danxia is a "masterpiece of nature’s windowed palace."
The sandstone hills have been carved by wind and water into rows of neat window shapes. From afar, they look like a cheese wall that’s been sliced; up close, like a giant honeycomb.
The scenic area has 80% fewer visitors than the Colorful Danxia, so you can have a whole hilltop to yourself.
📸 Photo Spots:
· Viewing Platform No. 1: Shoot the panoramic "windowed palace" from above
· Viewing Platform No. 2: Climb to the top and overlook the entire "Qilian Danxia" painting
· Scenic Area End "Louvre Phantom": A giant rock resembling a sphinx + the Louvre, impressively massive
👨👩👧 Family Fun
The boardwalk is flat and easy; even 5-year-olds can walk it themselves. Bring a magnifying glass for kids to see the tiny stone patterns in the sandstone—more vivid than any museum.
💑 Couples
Below Viewing Platform No. 2, halfway down the mountain, there’s a deserted area with three layers of color: desert, red hills, and sky. Perfect for selfies and group photos without anyone else in the frame.
👯 Besties
Wear earth-tone outfits in matching colors (cream, khaki, oatmeal) for great shots against the red hills.
⏰ Best Time to Visit
· June to September: 8 AM to 11 AM for the softest light
· Winter: 11 AM to 2 PM (low sun casts shadows on the "window frames")
Avoid Pitfalls
1. Binggou Danxia and Colorful Danxia are different scenic areas; don’t confuse them on navigation apps.
2. Binggou Danxia has no shuttle bus; you must walk, but the boardwalk is flat.
3. Sunscreen! UV intensity here is 1.5 times stronger than at the Colorful Danxia.
4. During windy and sandy season (March to May), wear a mask.
② Mati Temple Grottoes
A mix of Tibetan and Han Buddhist grottoes hidden deep in the Qilian Mountains.
The most interesting part isn’t just any single cave, but driving through 30 kilometers of Qilian mountain pastures, then entering the mountains to see "Thirty-Three Heavens"—a hanging temple with 21 caves built on five levels, backed by snowy peaks.
📸 Photo Spots:
· Exterior upward shot of the Thirty-Three Heavens grottoes
· Snow mountain reflection pool in front of the Thousand Buddha Cave
· Prayer wheels in front of the Gesar King Hall
👨👩👧 Family Fun
Show kids the differences in grottoes from different dynasties: Thirty-Three Heavens is from the Northern Wei period, Thousand Buddha Cave from Yuan-Ming periods, showcasing Buddhist art evolution.
💑 Couples
At the end of the boardwalk at the Thirty-Three Heavens grotto entrance, Tibetan prayer flags flutter in the wind with no one else around—perfect for couple photos.
👯 Besties
Mati Temple is a cultural preservation site for the Yugur ethnic group. Rent traditional Yugur costumes at the entrance for photos; the red and yellow colors contrast vividly.
⏰ Best Time to Visit
· June to October
· 9 AM to 4 PM
Avoid Pitfalls
1. No photography inside the Thirty-Three Heavens grottoes.
2. The murals in the Thousand Buddha Cave are ancient; touching them causes damage.
3. The area is at 2700 meters altitude, about 10°C colder than the city.
4. Poor signal; download offline maps in advance.
5. Mountain roads are winding; bring motion sickness medicine.
③ Shandan Military Horse Farm (Asia’s Largest Military Horse Farm)
The grassland where General Huo Qubing once trained horses, now a "rideable grassland."
July brings rapeseed flowers, August barley, and September golden grasslands—three seasons, three different sceneries.
Ride a horse across the grassland and look back at the Qilian Mountains; the view holds the whole summer.
📸 Photo Spots:
· Gate of Military Horse Farm No. 1: rapeseed flowers + snowy mountains in one frame
· Galloping Horses Show Area: daily at 10 AM and 3 PM
· Riding halfway up the mountain: panoramic view of the grassland
👨👩👧 Family Fun
Kids over 5 can ride ponies (30 RMB per round), with parents leading for safety.
💑 Couples
Ride deep into the grassland, pull out beef jerky and water from your backpack, and even the eagles overhead won’t see you.
👯 Besties
Wear white dresses in the rapeseed flower fields with the grassland and distant Qilian Mountains’ "snow mountain triple set" as the backdrop—perfect for photography.
⏰ Best Time to Visit
· July to September: best grassland season
· Mid-July to mid-August: rapeseed flower season
· 9 AM to 11 AM and 3 PM to 6 PM
Avoid Pitfalls
1. Check horse condition before riding; avoid overly sweaty or thin horses.
2. The farm is divided into four sections; most tourists stop at No. 1. It’s recommended to visit No. 2 or No. 3 for less crowded grasslands.
3. Strong UV on the plateau; hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen are essential.
4. Signal is spotty; send your location to family in advance.
④ Biandukou
An inconspicuous canyon entrance under the Qilian Mountains, but a must-pass place when traveling from Zhangye to Shandan Military Horse Farm or Xining.
In midsummer, the roadside is filled with rapeseed fields interwoven with barley and oats, with snowy mountains in the distance and a sea of yellow flowers nearby—China’s little Switzerland.
📸 Photo Spots:
· Viewing platform at Biandukou Scenic Area entrance
· Any section along the road on either side
· In front of a local herder’s "station"
👨👩👧 Family Fun
Get kids out of the car to walk along the field ridges and learn the difference between barley and rapeseed flowers (city kids often can’t tell).
💑 Couples
Park by the road and shoot a time-lapse video capturing the entire flower-lined road and snowy mountains together.
👯 Besties
Stand in the middle of the flower sea wearing a dress, take photos with the snowy mountains, and this will be the most liked post on social media.
⏰ Best Time to Visit
· July to August: rapeseed flower season
Avoid Pitfalls
1. Do not step on the flower fields; herders will fine 200 RMB.
2. Biandukou is windy; prepare hat wind straps.
⑤ Local Specialty Experiences
· Northwest-style noodles: Zhangye’s "Fish-shaped noodles" (hand-rolled into small fish shapes, served with sauce). A bowl for breakfast with a marinated egg costs 5 RMB and fills you up.
· Braised meat fried rolls: another noodle dish with rolled dough, braised meat, and green peppers, 10 RMB per serving.
· Apricot skin water: a sweet and sour drink sold on streets, 3-5 RMB per bottle.
· Night market: must-try roasted lamb hooves, stuffed cold noodles, and gray bean soup at Ganzhou Night Market.
Practical Information
💰 Tickets
· Binggou Danxia: 90 RMB (includes shuttle)
· Colorful Danxia: 74 RMB (includes shuttle, peak season)
· Mati Temple: 74 RMB (includes scenic area transport)
· Shandan Military Horse Farm No. 1: free (extra charges at some times)
· Biandukou: free
· Galloping Horses Show: 120 RMB per person
⏰ Hours
· Colorful Danxia: 6:00 AM–10:00 PM (last entry 1.5 hours before sunset)
· Binggou Danxia: 7:00 AM–7:00 PM
· Mati Temple: 8:00 AM–6:00 PM
· Shandan Military Horse Farm: open all day
💡 Tips
· Zhangye has a 15°C temperature difference between day and night; bring a jacket even in summer.
· High altitude (Zhangye city 1500 m, Colorful Danxia 2000 m); pay attention to sun protection and hydration.
· Scenic areas are far apart; car rental or private car is recommended.
· Shared cars are available at the high-speed train station and airport but require advance booking in peak season.
· Book accommodation at least one week in advance for July-August peak season.
Location
Ganzhou District, Zhangye City, Gansu Province, at the northern foot of the Qilian Mountains.
💭 Personal Thoughts
The first time I went to Zhangye, I thought "Danxia is just this color."
The second time, I realized Danxia is just the beginning of this land.
The Qilian Mountains have nurtured thousands of years of nomadic culture, hundreds of years of grottoes, decades of military horse farms, and today still nurture the people of Zhangye.
Standing deep in the grassland looking back at the Qilian Mountains, the snow line looks like a white dragon that never melts all summer.
I feel that no outsider can pronounce the name Zhangye with the true flavor of the Northwest.
You have to come here yourself. 🌾