This was a solo road trip where I took the wheel myself and surrendered my soul to the land of Hokkaido. Far from the hustle and bustle of the city, the pace of the journey slowed completely from the moment I boarded my domestic flight. The five-day, four-night trip traversed Shiretoko, Kushiro, Kitami, and Abashiri. Whether it was the magnificent coastal sunsets, the raw and rugged volcanic landscapes, or the boundless red wetlands, the sheer vastness of the landscape was a breathtaking experience unimaginable to those of us accustomed to the narrow streets and winding mountain roads of Taiwan.
Day 1: Flying to the northernmost point, heading towards the magnificent afterglow of Shiretoko
After arriving at New Chitose Airport, I skillfully navigated the terminal to transfer to a domestic flight to Memanbetsu Airport. As the propeller plane flew low over Hokkaido, looking out the window, lush green hills, well-arranged farmlands, and coniferous forests intertwined to create a vast landscape. The plane landed smoothly at the small and exquisite Memanbetsu Airport. Stepping out of the cabin, the cool and clear autumn air rushed towards me, instantly invigorating me.
I quickly completed the car rental procedures at the airport counter, sat in the driver's seat, started the engine, and my solo road trip along the eastern Hokkaido road officially began. My first destination was Shiretoko, the gateway to the World Natural Heritage site in the north. Driving out of the eastern Hokkaido road, the most representative straight highways of Hokkaido immediately came into view, with neatly arranged windbreaks and endless fields on both sides. Following the coastline of the Sea of Okhotsk northeastward, the gradually rising Shiretoko Mountains rose on my right, and the shimmering blue sea stretched to my left. The vastness of the road made me roll down the window, letting the cool sea breeze, carrying the scent of sea salt, fill the entire cabin.
Arriving near Utoro in Shiretoko around dusk, I was just in time for the breathtaking highlight—the Shiretoko sunset. As the sun slowly sank below the horizon of the Sea of Okhotsk, the entire sky gradually transformed from a dazzling golden hue to a rich orange-red, finally turning into a deep purple. The afterglow spilled onto the waves and the dark volcanic rocks along the shore, shimmering with a cool yet gentle light. This land, known as the "end of the world," gave me its most enthusiastic welcome with a magnificent sunset. That evening, I checked into a local guesthouse in Shiretoko, washing away the fatigue of the long flight in the utter tranquility far from the hustle and bustle, and drifted off to sleep early.
The next day: Traversing volcanoes and mysterious lakes, heading south to explore the creatures of Kushiro
Leaving Shiretoko in the early morning, I turned the car around and headed south, embarking on an exploration of the core landscape of eastern Japan. The car wound its way through layers of mountains, the air gradually filled with a strong smell of sulfur. Following the rising white smoke, we first arrived at the famous active volcano—Mount Iwo Jima. Here, the ground is barren, dozens of fumaroles violently spewing out high-temperature steam with a deafening roar, and the rocks are covered with bright yellow pure sulfur crystals. Standing on the edge of the scorching geothermal area, the purest, most primal, and violent power of nature delivers a powerful visual and sensory shock.
Leaving behind the sweltering heat of Mount Izu, the car wound its way up to Lake Mashu, nestled among mountains. This mysterious crater lake, renowned for its exceptionally high transparency, displays an unfathomable, sapphire-blue hue under the sunlight. Steep cliffs embrace the lake, its surface calm and still, reflecting the azure sky and white clouds. Standing on the observation deck, the world seems to stand still, as if time itself has stopped.
In the afternoon, we continued our journey, passing Lake Akan, admiring its shimmering waters protected by the majestic Mount Oakan, before heading southeast to the important town of Kushiro. The weather was pleasantly mild when we arrived at the Kushiro Zoo. Nestled amidst abundant natural forests, this zoo offers a more natural and wild experience than city zoos. In the cool northern climate, enormous polar bears frolic and play in the pool, while the red-crowned crane, a symbol of Hokkaido, gracefully strolls and spreads its wings on the grass. Witnessing these unique creatures of the northern lands display their leisurely and natural demeanor adds a warm and therapeutic touch to the otherwise stressful long drive.
Day 3: A Long Highway Meditation, Kitami Business Night
The main theme of the third day was a long drive. Leaving Kushiro in the south, I reset the navigation and headed north along the national highway running eastward towards Kitami. This was a physically demanding but also the most enjoyable part of the drive. Hokkaido's highways are vast and sparsely populated, allowing me to maintain a steady pace. With my favorite music playing in the car, the straight road felt like it was laid out just for me.
The scenery outside the window gradually shifted from the wetlands and forests of Kushiro to rolling hills and open farmland and pastures, with the occasional glimpse of wild Ezo deer peeking out from the roadside woods in search of food. This long drive alone, far from being tedious, transformed into a state of mindless meditation. With hands on the steering wheel and eyes fixed on the ever-expanding horizon, my thoughts were completely emptied in the vast expanse of nature.
After several hours of exhilarating driving, we arrived smoothly at Kitami, the inland city center of eastern Hokkaido, in the evening, and checked into a clean and convenient chain business hotel. After two days of pure natural enjoyment, Kitami's urban amenities felt incredibly convenient. Unloading my heavy photography equipment, I chose a local eatery in the city center, ordered a famous Hokkaido yakiniku (grilled meat) dish with a refreshing drink, and ended the long day of driving with a hearty and satisfying meal.
Day 4: The Crimson Miracle of Lake Notori, Farewell to Eastern Hokkaido and Return to Chitose
The core goal of the fourth day of the trip was a seasonal visual feast—the "Coral Grass (Hoshikawa grass)" of Lake Notori in Abashiri. After checking out of Kitami, we drove north to Abashiri. When we arrived at the Coral Grass field in Ubara, the morning light was just right, illuminating the entire wetland.
Every autumn, the Coral Grass, growing in saline water, sheds its green coat, transforming into a deep, intense crimson. Walking along the wooden boardwalk into the center of the wetland, an endless expanse of deep red unfolds before us, creating a striking color contrast with the deep blue waters of Lake Notori and the pure blue sky in the distance. A gentle breeze ripples the water, and sunlight reflects off the bright red grass leaves, creating an almost unreal beauty. When planning this leg of the journey through Abashiri, I deliberately skipped the tourist-favorite Abashiri Prison, because I preferred to spend all my time immersing myself in the fleeting yet magnificent seasonal wonders of eastern Hokkaido's nature, rather than the heaviness of historical and cultural buildings.
After gazing silently at this masterpiece of nature on the shores of Lake Notoro for a long time, I reluctantly drove back to Memanbetsu Airport to return the car. The hundreds of kilometers accumulated on the dashboard over four days symbolized the unspoken bond this car had built with me across the globe. Then, I boarded another domestic flight, leaving eastern Japan and returning to Chitose.
The sudden shift from the tranquil, pristine eastern Japan to the bustling Chitose and Sapporo area created a strange, almost otherworldly feeling. On the fourth night, I enjoyed a hot bath at a hotel near Chitose, unpacked my luggage, and filled my memory cards with beautiful photos. The next day, I flew back to Taiwan, bringing this incredibly fulfilling trip to a close.
This trip completely satisfied my desire for a road trip. The flexible connections via domestic flights within Japan avoided the hassle of long road trips; driving alone across the magnificent landscape of eastern Japan, I witnessed the sunset over Shiretoko, the purity of Lake Mashu, the crimson of Lake Notoro, and the pulsating energy of the volcanic landscape. The sense of freedom of being utterly alone in the vastness of the world, and the cleansing and soothing effects of nature, are the most precious and irreplaceable rewards of this trip.