An In-Depth Travelogue of the Simao Ancient Road Ruins: Retracing the Millennial Tea Horse Road and Touching the Most Complete Caravan Civilization
I. Prologue: The Epic Ancient Road at 22° N Latitude Hides Half the Trade History of Southern Yunnan
As the car leaves the downtown area of Pu'er and heads northwest along the tourist loop, the hustle and bustle of the city gradually fades away, replaced by the tranquility of the mountains and the fresh scent of vegetation. Reaching Lamei Slope, a stone tablet engraved with "Pu'er Tea Horse Road Ruins Park" comes into view—this is the very core of the Simao Ancient Road, the most completely preserved, longest, and culturally richest remaining section of the Yunnan-Tibet Tea Horse Road.
The Simao Ancient Road, known in ancient times as the "Official Horse Avenue," is the core hub of the southern Yunnan route of the Tea Horse Road. It connects tea source areas like Yiwu and Menghai in Xishuangbanna to the south, and reaches Dali, Lijiang, and Shangri-La to the north, eventually leading to Tibet and various South Asian countries. Originating in the Tang Dynasty, flourishing in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, and peaking in the Republic of China era, it carries a millennium-old legend of the tea-and-horse exchange market. It is the starting point for Pu'er tea's journey to the world and a living museum of caravan (Mabang) culture.
Unlike the fragmented remains of other Tea Horse Road ruins, the Simao Ancient Road connects a complete 18-kilometer bluestone paved path, the core relics of Banjiu Slope, the Zhongyi Relay Station Museum, and the Nakeli Ancient Relay Station into a continuous line, thoroughly encapsulating the footprints of the caravans, the legends of tea merchants, and the integration of ethnic groups documented on Ctrip. On this journey, I spent four days and three nights walking in-depth—from hiking the ruins to tracing cultural roots, from experiencing caravan life to exploring tea affairs. Amidst hoof prints and the fragrance of tea, I came to understand the past and present of the Simao Ancient Road. This is not just a trip, but a spiritual pilgrimage that converses with history and resonates with civilization.
II. Simao Ancient Road: The Past and Present of a Millennial Trade Route and the Most Complete Relic of Tea Horse Civilization
(I) Historical Origins: From the Tea-Horse Market to a Global Corridor
The birth of the Simao Ancient Road is inextricably linked to the "Tea-Horse Exchange." During the Tang Dynasty, ethnic groups in the southwestern frontiers, such as the Tibetan and Naxi people, had a massive demand for tea, while the inland regions desperately needed frontier horses and medicinal herbs. This trade model of trading tea for horses and vice versa emerged, marking the embryonic form of the Tea Horse Road.
During the Song Dynasty, Simao became the tea distribution center of southern Yunnan. The government established the "Tea and Horse Agency" to regulate the trade, and the ancient road gradually took shape. In the Yuan Dynasty, with the establishment of the Yunnan Province, the Simao Ancient Road became a vital official route connecting the interior with the frontier, resulting in increasingly frequent trade. During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, Pu'er tea became a tribute tea, and Simao, as the starting point for tribute tea entering the capital, reached its zenith—"Merchants and travelers came and went in an endless stream, mules and horses jammed the roads, and bells rang for ten miles." Dozens of tea houses and trading firms stood in great numbers, and caravan teams easily consisting of hundreds of mules and horses transported Pu'er tea, silk, and salt to Tibet, India, Nepal, and other places, returning with horses, jewelry, and spices. Simao leapt to become the "Commercial Capital of Southern Yunnan."
From the Republic of China era to the Anti-Japanese War period, the Simao Ancient Road served as a vital supply lifeline for the Great Rear Area in the southwest, with massive amounts of strategic materials transported through it, pushing the caravan culture to its peak. After the founding of New China, with the rise of highways and railways, the ancient road gradually fell silent, but the hoof prints on the bluestone slabs, the ruins of the relay stations, and the relics of tea merchants still tell the tale of its thousand-year prosperity. In 2013, the Simao Tea Horse Road Ruins were listed as the seventh batch of Major Historical and Cultural Sites Protected at the National Level; in 2024, it was selected as a "Classic Hiking Route of Yunnan," becoming a pilgrimage site for global tea enthusiasts and history buffs.
(II) Core Relics: An 18-Kilometer Bluestone Path to Touch Living History
The Simao Ancient Road Ruins Park covers an area of nearly 5,000 mu, with its core being the well-preserved 18-kilometer bluestone ancient road. Among it, the Banjiu Slope section (14.5 kilometers) is hailed as a "living fossil in the history of transportation in China and even the world." It is the starting point of the Yunnan-Tibet Tea Horse Road, with a history of over 1,800 years.
This section of the ancient road is about 1.5 meters wide, entirely paved with bluestone. After enduring thousands of years of wind and rain, it remains as solid as ever. The hoof prints on the stone slabs, some several centimeters deep, are densely packed and layered, serving as a silent witness to the caravans' millennial treks—every hoof print carries the commands of the Maguotou (caravan leader), the sweat of the porters, the panting of the mules and horses, and the legend of Pu'er tea stepping out from the deep mountains into the world.
Along the ancient road, relics are abundant: The stone screen wall is engraved with tea tax stele records and trade regulations from the Ming and Qing Dynasties, serving as crucial physical artifacts for studying the tea-horse trade; the Twelve-Railing Slope is dangerously steep, marking the most arduous section of the ancient road where caravans had to pass with extreme caution, and the reinforced stone railings can still be seen today; the ten-thousand-mu rhododendron garden blooms like a sea of flowers in spring, creating a delightful contrast with the ancient road and tea gardens; stable ruins, stone water troughs, and guidepost steles are scattered in the forest, recreating the daily life of caravans on the road; the Rolling Horse Slope gets its name from its steep terrain where mules and horses often lost their footing and rolled down, recounting the perilous tales of the journey on Ctrip.
(III) Cultural Value: A Bond of Ethnic Integration and a Bridge for the Spread of Civilization
The Simao Ancient Road is not only a trade route but also a bond for the integration of multi-ethnic cultures. Along the route live various ethnic groups, including the Hani, Yi, Dai, Lahu, and Han. The coming and going of caravans promoted communication and integration among them—Han tea culture and architectural techniques were introduced to the frontiers, while the songs, dances, handicrafts, and food cultures of ethnic minorities spread inland, forming a unique "Tea Horse Culture."
On the ancient road, Central Plains culture clashed and melded with frontier culture: Central Plains architectures like the Shiping Guild Hall and Guandi Temple coexisted with Dai bamboo stilt houses and Hani mushroom houses; the crafting techniques of Pu'er tea combined the wisdom of various ethnic groups; caravan ballads and tea-horse stories were passed down orally among the peoples. It is fair to say that the Simao Ancient Road is a living history of ethnic culture, witnessing the millennium-long journey of coexistence and co-prosperity among the ethnic groups in the southwest.
At the same time, the Simao Ancient Road is also a bridge for Chinese civilization to spread to the world. Pu'er tea went global through here, becoming a calling card of Chinese culture; Central Plains techniques like silk, porcelain, and papermaking were introduced to South and West Asia, while foreign Buddhist and Islamic cultures, as well as exotic crop varieties, were introduced inland, driving cultural exchange and mutual learning between Eastern and Western civilizations.
III. In-Depth Exploration of Core Ruins: From Banjiu Slope to Zhongyi Relay Station, Every Step is History and Legend
(I) Banjiu Slope Ancient Road: Millennial Hoof Prints, the Most Complete Living Fossil of the Tea Horse Road
Banjiu Slope is the core relic of the Simao Ancient Road and the focal point of this hike. Starting from the entrance of the Ruins Park, a 10-minute sightseeing cart ride brings you to the starting point of the Banjiu Slope hike—this is the beginning of the 18-kilometer ancient road and also its best-preserved section.
Stepping onto the bluestone path, the hoof prints beneath your feet are clearly visible, some up to 10 centimeters deep. The overlapping tracks of mules and horses make you feel as if you can still hear the jingling of horse bells and the neighing of animals from a thousand years ago on Ctrip. On both sides of the ancient road, the primitive rainforest is dense, with ancient vines intertwined, babbling streams, and echoing bird calls. The concentration of negative oxygen ions is extremely high, making the walk physically and mentally refreshing.
After about a 1-hour hike, you reach the stone screen wall ruins. Built of bluestone, the screen wall is about 3 meters high and 5 meters wide. Engraved on it is the "Record of Tea Cases" from the Daoguang reign of the Qing Dynasty, which details the tea tax system, trade rules, and tea merchants' rights protection of that era. Though weathered by wind and rain, the characters remain clearly legible. Next to the inscription, four large characters for "Tea Horse Road" are carved, serving as the best footnote to this history.
Continuing forward, you enter the Twelve-Railing Slope. This section of the road is terribly steep, with a gradient of over 30 degrees. The sides of the ancient road are fortified with bluestone railings to reinforce the surface. When caravans passed through here back in the day, they had to dismount and lead their animals; the mules and horses stepped cautiously, as the slightest misstep would result in a fatal slip. Walking on the railing slope today, you can still feel the perils of the past and harbor a deep reverence for the resilience of the caravans.
After about a 3-hour hike, you reach the highest point of Banjiu Slope—Huiwang (Looking Back) Pavilion. Standing in the pavilion and looking down upon the entire Simao urban area and the rolling tea mountains, the view is expansive, wreathed in mist and brimming with greenery. The stone tablet inside the pavilion is engraved with "Looking back a thousand years, the caravans return," prompting one to reflect on the ancient road's millennium of prosperity and sigh at the vicissitudes of time.
Descending from Huiwang Pavilion, you can spot multiple stable ruins and stone water troughs along the way. The stables, built of stone blocks, still reveal their former scale despite being reduced to dilapidated walls; the water troughs, chiseled from solid blocks of bluestone and about 30 centimeters deep, were where the caravans watered and fed their horses. The smooth inner walls of the troughs bear the traces of a thousand years of use.
The entire hike of Banjiu Slope takes about 5 hours. The road condition is primarily bluestone paths, with some sections of dirt trails in the woods, making the difficulty moderate. Walking through it, every step lands on history, and every glance captures the remnants of civilization—it is a must-walk route for an in-depth experience of the Tea Horse culture.
(II) Zhongyi Relay Station Museum: An Encyclopedia of Caravan Culture, Over 800 Artifacts Telling Legends
Located at the end of the Banjiu Slope ancient road, the Zhongyi Relay Station was one of the most important relay stations on the Simao Ancient Road during the Ming and Qing Dynasties. It is also the most valuable caravan museum in the southwestern Yunnan region, housing over 800 caravan artifacts that recreate the living and trading scenes of the caravans.
The relay station features Ming and Qing architectural styles, with black tiles and earthen walls in a traditional courtyard layout. Red lanterns sway at the entrance, while tea baskets, saddles, and storm lanterns used by the caravans are piled up in the corners. Old photographs on the walls chronicle the rise and fall of the "Tea-Horse Exchange." Walking into the relay station, it feels as if you have time-traveled back a century; the commands of the caravan leader, the shouts of the porters, and the neighing of the mules and horses seem to echo right in your ears.
Inside the museum, the artifacts are a feast for the eyes, each carrying its own story:
Caravan transportation tools: Saddles, packframes, tea baskets, storm lanterns, copper bells, and horsewhips. Among them, the saddles made of cowhide and wood boast exquisite craftsmanship and were the core equipment of the caravans; the storm lanterns, made of iron sheets to withstand wind and rain, were essential for night travel.
Commercial trade instruments: Pocket ivory scales, bamboo abacuses, tea tickets, contracts, and account books. The ivory scales precisely weighed tea, gold, and silver; the tea tickets served as "trade vouchers" back in the day; and the account books recorded the transaction details of the tea houses, providing precious materials for studying the tea-horse trade.
Caravan daily life items: The caravan leader's saber, fire pits, tea sets, clothing, and ration bags. The saber is a symbol of the caravan leader's status
Parker takes you to see Yunnan