It’s not the height of the mountain, but the presence of immortals that makes it sacred—a must-see beautiful scenery
Travelogue of Dongfang Mountain: The First Mountain of San Chu, a Breathing Zen Mountain
"The mountain is not famous for its height, but for the monks it houses." Dongfang Mountain is only 475 meters tall, yet it allows one to forget the city's hustle and bustle amid the steps’ breathlessness.
Departure|The "Green Lung" on the edge of Huangshi City
On a Saturday morning, the air in Huangshi still carried a faint scent of coal and iron—the city’s roots lie in mining and metallurgy. But driving just over ten minutes down to Dongfang Mountain Street in the Xianglu District, the scene quietly changes: buildings recede, the mountain rises, morning mist drapes the treetops like a thin veil, and the air suddenly becomes crisp and fresh.
Set your navigation to "Dongfang Mountain Scenic Area New Visitor Center." The parking lot is spacious with plenty of spots. The notice clearly states: entrance to the scenic area is free, private cars are not allowed up the mountain, and visitors must transfer to the scenic shuttle bus. After purchasing a round-trip ticket (30 RMB per person), the bus gently carries you up the winding mountain road, with dappled sunlight flickering like gold on the windows.
First Stop|Honghua Zen Temple: The Breath of 1,200 Years
The shuttle bus drops us off near the new south gate. Walking slowly up the stone steps, a vermilion temple wall emerges from the greenery—Honghua Zen Temple has arrived.
Founded during the Tang Dynasty under Emperor Xianzong (around 804-805 AD) by Master Zhiyin, this ancient temple is the Buddhist ancestral court of eastern Hubei. Along with Wuhan’s Guiyuan Temple and Dangyang’s Yuquan Temple, it is known as one of the "Three Great Zen Forests of Hubei." The five large characters above the mountain gate read "The First Mountain of San Chu," said to be inscribed by the Qing Kangxi-era scholar Yu Guozhu, with strokes that seem to pierce through the paper.
Beside the release pond is a small space called "A Place to Read Beyond Dust," furnished with bookshelves and low tables, next to a herbal tea and medicinal food corner—not selling incense, but coffee, flower tea, and health drinks. Here, the boundary between the temple and modern life is gently blurred.
Entering the courtyard before the Mahavira Hall, your eyes are immediately drawn to a thousand-year-old ginkgo tree. Legend says it was personally planted by Master Zhiyin, about 1,200 years old, with a trunk so thick three people can barely encircle it, and branches spreading half an acre of shade. April is not its most glorious season—wait until late autumn (around November), when the tree turns golden and fallen leaves carpet the stone steps, embodying true "Zen on the ground."
Next to the hall is the Lingquan Zhuoxi spring—one of the ancient eight scenic spots. A fine spring seeps from a rock crevice, said to have been struck forth by Master Zhiyin’s tin staff. The moss-covered stone stele beside it, the clear, icy water—splash some on your face and you feel instantly awakened.
The temple is quiet and peaceful, with just the right number of worshippers. No one shouts to sell incense, no one blocks the path to push sales. This is the aura a thousand-year-old temple should have: not relying on noise, but on the weight of time itself.
Upward|The Hero Slope and Breaths Between Stone Steps
Leaving Honghua Zen Temple through the back gate and continuing upward, you reach the section locals call the Hero Slope—the stone steps steepen, the canopy thickens, and only birdsong and your own breathing remain. The mountain is four to five degrees cooler than the base; in April, short sleeves and a gentle breeze make it comfortably unreal.
Along the way, you can see remnants of the ancient eight scenic spots with beautifully poetic names: "Pine Tree Growing Upside Down"—a pine growing stubbornly out of a cliff crevice; "Lazy Iron Ox Reclining," "Stone Boat Held High"—these are mostly legendary strange rocks and formations. No need to seek proof; just hearing the names while walking the mountain feels like reading classical poetry.
After about forty minutes of climbing, the eaves and flying corners of Dongchang Pavilion begin to appear through the trees.
Second Stop|Dongchang Pavilion: A 108-Meter-Tall "Tang Dynasty Fantasy"
Honestly, the first time I saw Dongchang Pavilion from afar—a 108-meter-tall, nine-story ancient-style pavilion towering on the mountaintop—I was a bit stunned. It’s so large, creating a fascinating tension with the mountain’s gentle ancient charm: on one side, 1,200 years of simple Zen; on the other, a modern cultural tourism ambition of a "Tang Dynasty Immortal World."
Regular immersive performance and exhibition tickets cost about 59 RMB (discounted tickets 30 RMB). Inside, exhibits are arranged by floor: a Medicine Buddha cultural display, Chu culture scene recreations, intangible cultural heritage crafts, Hanfu costume changing, and immersive audio-visual performances (such as the "Journey to the West Returns" themed show). An elevator takes you to the upper floors, then you explore downwards. The top floor is a cloud-level viewing platform.
I bought a ticket and went in—standing on the eighth floor balcony, the entire Huangshi basin unfolds beneath: the Ehuang Yangtze River Bridge stretches like a silver thread across the river, the distant city’s gray-blue skyline frames with the flying eaves of Honghua Zen Temple nearby. The mountain breeze gently sways you, and suddenly you understand why the ancients built "viewing" spots on mountain peaks.
It’s perfectly fine not to enter the pavilion—the plaza outside offers great photo opportunities of the pavilion’s full view. The surrounding Pear Blossom Valley trail, Sweetgum Forest, and Rainbow Trail are the real free highlights.
Downhill|Pear Blossom Valley and the Leisurely Walk Back
From beside Dongchang Pavilion, take the Pear Blossom Valley—Streamside Seclusion trail downhill (about 0.95 to 2.2 km, gentle and easy). The forest light is soft like a filter, the stream babbles through rock crevices, and wildflowers occasionally peek from leaf piles. April is not pear blossom season (peak bloom is in March), but the fresh green leaves are even more vibrant than flowers.
Arriving at the foot visitor center, checking the time—it took about four hours total, not tiring, but your legs will tell you you climbed many steps.
Practical Information (to help you avoid pitfalls)
Item Details
Location No. 99 Dongfang Avenue, Dongfang Mountain Street, Xianglu District, Huangshi City
Rating National 4A, Provincial Scenic Area + Provincial Forest Park
Entrance Fee Free
Scenic Shuttle Bus Round-trip 30 RMB / Unlimited rides on the loop line 10 RMB per day
Dongchang Pavilion About 59 RMB (includes exhibits + performances), discounted tickets about 30 RMB; usually closed Mondays, check official WeChat
Opening Hours Scenic area approx. 8:00–17:00, Dongchang Pavilion approx. 9:30–16:30
Transportation Drive and navigate to "Dongfang Mountain Scenic Area New Visitor Center"; bus routes 6/11 direct; about 1.5 hours from Wuhan
Key Rules No private cars up the mountain, park at visitor center and transfer to shuttle; no open flames or candles; keep quiet inside the temple
Gear Non-slip sports shoes (many stone steps), light jacket (cool on the mountain), water, mosquito repellent
Final Thoughts
Dongfang Mountain is not a "check-in and leave" kind of scenic spot. Its layers are special—the base is 1,200 years of uninterrupted incense; the middle is eastern Hubei people’s cultural identity with the "First Mountain of San Chu"; the top is contemporary attempts to retell the same story with Tang-style pavilions and immersive performances.
These three layers don’t always fit perfectly and sometimes feel a bit conflicted. But precisely because of this "conflict," it feels much more authentic than overly packaged internet-famous mountains.
On the way down, I picked up a few pale green ginkgo fruits fallen outside the temple wall, pocketing one. On the return trip, I touched it—hard, cool, like a thermometer from the Tang Dynasty quietly measuring the heartbeat of the moment.
(Some ticket prices and performance times may vary seasonally. Before you go, search "Huangshi Dongfang Mountain" on WeChat to confirm the day’s opening status.)