Walking Through Xi'an Ancient City (Part One)
The Fragrance of Chinaberry Blossoms on South Horse Road Lane
South Horse Road Lane, a historic alley inside Xi'an's city wall, is located directly south of the West Gate, with the city wall to its west. It stretches 740 meters long and 10 meters wide, running from the South City Wall to the West Gate ramp. While not the site of major historical events, its fate has always been closely tied to the city wall's defense and urban transformation, with significant historical connections.
In Xi'an, if there's a place that perfectly blends antiquity, history, and natural beauty, South Horse Road Lane is certainly one of them. In late spring and early summer, the blooming chinaberry flowers add a unique and captivating touch to this ancient alley. Starting from the southwest corner of the ancient city, park your bicycle and stroll slowly along the lane, and you'll see a row of tall chinaberry trees on the south side next to the city wall. These trees are lush with dense branches and leaves, providing ample shade, with clusters of flowers quietly guarding the ancient wall and the years that South Horse Road Lane has witnessed. The tree canopies line up along the trunks on the inner side of the city wall, like giant umbrellas woven from flowers and leaves, casting cool green shadows under the sun. Now is the season when chinaberry blossoms are in full bloom, with clusters and strings of light purple flowers densely adorning the branches, twinkling like stars and floating like gentle clouds. During this season of blooming chinaberry flowers at the western city wall of the ancient city, I came here to enjoy their fragrance, photograph the flowers, and trace historical footprints. The fragrance drifts to one lane and two neighborhoods of South Horse Road Lane. This lane is South Horse Road Lane, and the two neighborhoods are Longqu Bay and White Egret Bay.
During the Tang Dynasty, this lane was part of the western government office area of the imperial city. The western side of the Tang Dynasty imperial city housed offices like the Court of Imperial Sacrifices and the Court of the Imperial Stud, and the vertical street where South Horse Road Lane is located was likely used for transporting supplies to government offices and for officials' travel, witnessing the administrative operations of the Tang Dynasty capital, though no specific events were recorded. During the An Lushan Rebellion in 756, Tang troops relied on the western wall of the imperial city to resist rebel forces, and the lane, as a passage inside the city wall, may have been used for troop deployment, though specific details are not found in historical records. In the Ming Dynasty, the military positioning of Horse Road Lane was established in the seventh year of Hongwu (1374). When the Xi'an city wall was expanded, horse ramps were added to access the wall, and South Horse Road Lane became a military passage connecting the South City Wall and the West Gate. In 1643, when Li Zicheng's rebel army besieged Xi'an, Ming troops transported firearms and provisions to the city wall through this lane, demonstrating its defensive value. The lane was also part of the daily patrol route for the Ming Dynasty Prince of Qin's guards. The Prince of Qin's Palace (now Xi'an New City Square) had guards who likely used this lane to travel to and from the city wall, making the lane part of the royal security system.
During the Qing Dynasty, it transformed from a military passage to a civilian street. As the Governor-General's Office of Shaanxi and Gansu was established in Xi'an, South Horse Road Lane, close to the West Gate (then called "Fengyuan Gate"), was likely used for transporting documents and weapons between the northwestern frontier and inland areas, witnessing the Qing Dynasty's governance of the northwest. Later, during the Hui Muslim Rebellion in the 19th century, specifically in 1862, Qing forces reinforced the city wall's defenses. South Horse Road Lane, as an access route to the wall, housed garrison troops and stored gunpowder. Some parts of the wall still show signs of Qing Dynasty repairs. In modern Chinese history, it became a mark of war and urban renewal. During the Anti-Japanese War, after the Battle of Shanghai in 1937, Xi'an became a target for Japanese air raids. Air raid shelters were dug into the city wall on the west side of South Horse Road Lane (three still exist), with some tunnels extending to the edge of the lane, remaining physical evidence of modern defensive history.
After the founding of the People's Republic of China, government protection and renovation began. During the 1983 restoration project of Xi'an's city wall, South Horse Road Lane was designated as a "buffer zone for protection inside the city wall," and some illegal buildings were demolished to restore the Ming and Qing Dynasty lane dimensions. In the early 21st century, cultural tourism was gradually introduced, completing the transformation from a "defensive passage" to a "cultural lane." As the breeze blows, the flower branches sway gently, making a soft rustling sound as they touch the old city bricks. Meanwhile, a unique fragrance fills the air—a slightly sweet, penetrating scent that's neither as rich and gorgeous as roses nor as fresh and elegant as jasmine. Its fragrance requires you to calm down and savor it carefully to appreciate its charm. This scent envelops the entire South Horse Road Lane and nearby neighborhoods, making everyone who passes by slow down and immerse themselves in this subtle fragrance.
When you come to Xi'an, you must visit Andingmen! This is the main west gate of Xi'an city wall. You can feel the historical atmosphere as soon as you get close. Standing downstairs in the city, looking at the heavy city walls and quaint buildings, I feel that I have passed back to ancient times in an instant. The triple gate building of the city gate, the city building, the arrow building, and the gate floor are particularly shocking. There is also an old sweet well in the city, which is said to have supported many Xi'an people before. The moon bridge on the moat is super beautiful at night, the lights are bright, and the photos are absolutely worth coming!
⛰️How to play: There are many different gates in the Xi'an City Wall. Andingmen is the middle gate on the west side of the Tang Dynasty Imperial City. It was preserved in the late Tang Dynasty and moved slightly during the expansion in the Ming Dynasty, implying "Western stability". It is not far from the Bell Tower and Drum Tower, so you can visit it together. 🚗Transportation and accommodation: You can take Xi'an Metro Line 6 and exit from Andingmen Station Exit B, walk about 3 minutes to enter the scenic area, or get off at Qiaozikou Station and exit from Exit B. The nearby hotels are affordable and not as noisy as those near the Never-Sleeping City, so it is still very convenient to travel; 🍜Food recommendation: There are many local snack shops nearby. Even if you don't go to Huimin Street or something, the various food shops nearby are enough to meet your three meals a day needs; 📌Intimate TIPS: There are many beautiful women in Hanfu in Xi'an, but the most common ones seen at Andingmen are "Warring States robe" beauties. It may be because this city gate looks particularly strong and majestic, with a majestic and tragic style of the Warring States period.
Anding Gate is located in the south-central part of the west city wall. It was originally the "Shunyi Gate" on the west side of the imperial city of Chang'an during the Sui and Tang dynasties. It was retained when Han Jian rebuilt the new city in the late Tang Dynasty. From the seventh to the eleventh year of Hongwu in the Ming Dynasty (1374 to 1378), the Xi'an prefectural city was expanded and this gate was used as the west gate and renamed "Anding Gate". Today, Anding Gate has a barbican, an arrow tower, a main tower and a double doorway. In addition, three archways were opened on both sides of the gate for vehicles and pedestrians to pass through. Anding Gate is the main west gate of the Xi'an city wall.
Xi'an West Gate has three gatehouses. The city tower, arrow tower and gate tower are located on three city walls from inside to outside. There are arched doorways under the gatehouses. There is a square city wall between the city tower and the arrow tower, which is an entrance and exit passage in normal times and a defensive position in wartime. Its arrow tower is the most complete ancient castle in my country so far. On the north side of the city tower is an observation platform built by the Japanese emperor when he visited Xi'an.
The West Gate Arrow Tower and the tower of the Xi'an City Wall still stand majestically. On the north side of the tower is an observation deck built by the Japanese Emperor when he visited Xi'an. It is open to tourists and is a national key cultural relic protection unit. The West Gate Arrow Tower is the most complete ancient castle in China so far.
Andingmen is the west gate of Xi'an city wall, which was opened in Ming and Qing Dynasties. The word "An Ding" implies peace and stability in the western frontier. Andingmen was originally the west middle gate of the Tang Dynasty imperial city. It was preserved when Han Jian built a new city in the late Tang Dynasty. When the city wall was expanded in the Ming Dynasty, its location was slightly moved to the south. Now the inside of the city gate is Xidajie, and the outside of the gate is Xiguanzheng Street.
Andingmen is the main west gate of the Xi'an city wall, commonly known as the West Gate. It was originally the middle gate on the west side of the Tang Dynasty imperial city. It was preserved when Han Jian built a new city at the end of the Tang Dynasty. When the city wall was expanded from the seventh to the eleventh year of Hongwu in the Ming Dynasty (1374-1378), its location was slightly moved to the south and named Andingmen. "Anding" means peace and stability in the western frontier. Inside the city gate is West Street, and outside the gate is Xiguan Main Street.