A Secret Journey in Qinghai, with Lake and Mountain Scenery Along the Way
When you mention Qinghai, certain images automatically come to mind, such as the plateau winds, the deep blue waters, and the vastness of the grasslands stretching endlessly. Everything carries a unique texture, closer to the sky, which always makes me yearn for it deeply.
However, the distances between Qinghai’s attractions are quite far, and traveling alone in unfamiliar territory with inconvenient transportation requires a lot of planning for a good experience. Group tours often have limited itineraries mostly involving bus rides and fixed schedules. How wonderful it would be if this Qinghai trip could be a bit freer, not just ticking off spots, but wandering and pausing according to one’s mood!
With this idea, I did a lot of research and eventually came across a friend’s travel diary. It turned out they had arranged a private car tour, offering both freedom and local expertise (with a local driver-guide), perfectly meeting my needs.
When discussing the itinerary, I told the driver-guide in advance that I preferred less popular, more secluded spots over the usual tourist attractions. The guide immediately recommended the Water Yadan and Emerald Lake.
When I saw the Water Yadan with my own eyes, I was deeply shocked. In the boundless desert, a shimmering “lake” suddenly appeared, and on the lake stood uniquely shaped Yadan landforms, like mysterious castles growing out of the desert. ❤️🔥
The Water Yadan already amazed me with nature’s wonders, but the beauty of Emerald Lake captivated me even more at first sight. Compared to the famous Chaka Salt Lake, Emerald Lake is quieter and more profound.
Before departure, I saw others’ photos of Emerald Lake under gray, overcast skies and worried I might encounter the same weather. Fortunately, the guide had already considered the weather, closely monitoring it days in advance and ready to adjust the itinerary flexibly, moving the Emerald Lake visit to a sunny day if needed.
As it turned out, just as we wished, the weather was perfect without any changes. When we got off the car and saw Emerald Lake, I was truly stunned. Emerald Lake shines like a jewel, displaying various gradient colors, with the blues of Chaka Salt Lake and the greens of Chaerhan Salt Lake combined.
From a drone’s aerial view, Emerald Lake reveals the earth’s colorful secrets. Countless salt ponds, like carefully cut emeralds and sapphires, scatter across the Gobi Desert. In perfect sunlight, the blues and greens blend vividly through the lens. The shallows are tender green, the lake’s center is imperial green, and some salt ponds shimmer cobalt blue, reflecting the sky.
My most anticipated spots, Eboliang and Heidushan, felt like walking in a futuristic otherworld.
Before the trip, I checked some wild route guides for Eboliang and saw someone taking cool photos by circling Mars Lake to the mountain. I asked the guide to take us there. The guide said that route is indeed drivable but very dangerous, with a high risk of getting stuck, and many areas prohibit self-driving to protect the environment.
I thought we would miss out, but the guide, not wanting us to regret it, took us on a similar but safer route. We could freely roam among the Yadan formations, touching and photographing without restrictions. Plus, the spot we visited was mostly off the usual tour routes, becoming our exclusive scenic wonder—free and magical.
To capture the dazzling starry sky of Eboliang, we decided to camp there. The guide carefully avoided cloudy periods and chose a sheltered hollow among the Yadan formations for camping, blocking the Gobi’s fierce winds while offering an open view of the starry sky. They also prepared thick blankets and ginger tea for us.
Under that starry sky, it felt as if I could reach out and touch the universe’s pulse. The stars were like gems embedded in black velvet, countless and uncountable. The Milky Way stretched across the sky so clearly that even the nebulae were distinguishable.
We then went to Heidushan. There was a stretch of road without signal, but luckily the guide had warned us, so we downloaded some TV shows in advance to pass the time. Thanks to the guide’s familiarity with the route, we avoided getting lost despite the lack of navigation. 🧭
Heidushan does not allow cars inside; you can only take the park’s shuttle bus or hike. Although it was a bit breath-taking, it was worth it! It truly felt like stepping into a giant ink wash painting—desolate, silent, majestic, and soul-liberating!
The wonder of Heidushan lies in its rare visual impact. From above, it looks like a dense ink painting splashed by a god on the Gobi. The continuous black mountains resemble sleeping giants, their spines carved with ravines by wind erosion. The gray-white salt flats act as natural blank spaces, outlining the sharp edges of the ink-black hills.
The distant Yadan formations connect seamlessly with Heidushan. From the sky, the boundary between the black mountains and the Gobi is as straight as a knife cut, with only black and white spreading across the land, making you feel as if you were on the moon’s surface. Thanks to the guide finding the best drone angles, I captured a photo at Heidushan that looks like a painting come to life. The drone’s perspective was even more stunning than being there in person!
We had so much fun shooting inside that by the time we left, our camera and drone were out of battery!
Looking back on this trip, I’m really glad I chose a private car tour. No need to think about planning, someone arranges the itinerary for you, no frantic rushing, and most importantly, having a guide who knows the routes well in the wilderness is incredibly reassuring! You just need to enjoy the beauty along the way.
TIPS:
For geological wonders like Water Yadan, Emerald Lake, Eboliang, and Heidushan, viewing from the air reveals unparalleled grandeur, magical textures, and magnificent compositions (such as the gradient color blocks of Emerald Lake and the ultimate ink-wash atmosphere of Heidushan). If possible, be sure to bring a drone.