A Millennium Dream is Fen City: Rediscovering the Lost Elegance of Central China Amid Vinegar Aroma and Ancient Architecture
【A Thousand-Year-Old Vinegar Aroma】Fen City, a Hidden Gem in Southern Shanxi Preserved by Time | Travel Blogger’s Private Guide
I have always been fascinated by those “living” ancient cities. They are not just tourist attractions but vessels of time.
Today, I want to take you to an extremely niche yet profoundly stunning place—Fen City in Linfen, Shanxi. Here, there are no crowds of tourists, only authentic ancient buildings, the aroma of vinegar flowing for a thousand years, and a profound sense of history that instantly calms the soul.
If you are tired of commercialized ancient towns, this is your treasure.
1. First Encounter with Fen City: What is Fen City?
First, a little knowledge to clarify: the “Fen City” we refer to usually means Fen City Town in Xiangfen County.
It was once the old county seat of Taiping County, thus preserving a complete set of county-level ancient urban architectural complexes. It is not a recreated ancient park but a “living fossil” ancient city where residents still live, full of everyday life.
· Ancient Architecture Museum: Buildings from the Jin Dynasty to the Republic of China stand side by side, walking among them feels like traveling through time.
· Vinegar Aroma Everywhere: This is one of the core production areas of Shanxi aged vinegar, and the air is filled with a rich vinegar scent.
· Absolute Tranquility: No hawking or neon lights, allowing you to quietly touch history.
2. Must-Experience Highlights: What to Do in Fen City to Make Your Visit Worthwhile?
1. Follow the Central Axis for a Time Travel Journey
The ancient buildings of Fen City are mainly distributed along a traditional north-south central axis. It is recommended to visit in this order:
· Confucian Temple (Dacheng Hall): The starting point. This is the place for worshiping Confucius. The existing Dacheng Hall is a Jin Dynasty relic and one of the very few Jin Dynasty Confucian temple buildings remaining in China. Touching the sturdy pillars and grand dougong brackets, you can truly feel what “a millennium in a moment” means.
· City God Temple: Just next to the Confucian Temple, it is a classic example of official architecture with “front court and rear chamber.” The glazed components and wood carvings are exquisitely crafted. Light filtering through the window lattice onto the ancient floor tiles creates an excellent atmosphere, making it a perfect spot for photos.
· Drum Tower: The iconic building of Fen City. Passing through it feels like stepping through a time portal. Standing below and looking up, the plaques on all four sides tell stories of historical majesty.
· County Government Hall: After the Drum Tower is the ancient power center. Although the existing buildings were mostly rebuilt in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the layout remains. You can imagine the county magistrate holding court here.
· Sheji Temple & Hongji Bridge: The end of the route. This Jin Dynasty stone bridge is still sturdy. Standing on the bridge and looking back, the vicissitudes of the entire ancient city unfold before your eyes.
2. Immersive Experience: Smell, Taste, and Understand Vinegar
· Visit Traditional Vinegar Workshops: In the alleys of the ancient city, many family-run vinegar workshops are hidden. Step inside, and you will be surrounded by a strong sour aroma. Watching the huge vinegar vats and chatting with the simple workshop owners about the five-step process of “steaming, fermenting, smoking, dripping, aging,” you will gain a new understanding of Shanxi aged vinegar.
· Taste the “Soft, Sour, Fragrant, Sweet” Flavors: Be sure to try aged vinegar that is five or even ten years old! A drop on your tongue instantly releases complex flavors—more than just sourness, it has a profound mellow aroma and a sweet aftertaste.
Buying a few bottles of handmade vinegar as souvenirs is more meaningful than any other keepsake.
3. Street Strolling and Cultural Photography
Half of Fen City’s charm lies in its architecture, the other half in its life.
· Capture Light and Shadow: Early morning or late afternoon, sunlight gilds the ancient buildings, the golden hour for photography.
· Record Life: Elderly people sunbathing at their doorsteps, children chasing and playing in the alleys, residents riding tricycles through the Drum Tower… these vivid daily scenes form the most touching scenery of Fen City. Please remember to respect local residents and ask for permission before taking close-up portraits.
3. Travel Planning Suggestions
· One-Day Highlights Tour (Recommended):
· Morning: Arrive in Fen City, start from the Confucian Temple, then visit the City God Temple, Drum Tower, and County Government Hall in order.
· Noon: Find a small local eatery in town to try authentic Xiangfen saozi noodles or lamb hotpot.
· Afternoon: Visit vinegar workshops for tasting and shopping. Then stroll to Hongji Bridge and end the day at sunset.
· Two-Day In-Depth Tour:
· Day One: Take your time to savor the ancient architectural complex of Fen City, linger longer at each spot. Stay overnight in Linfen or Xiangfen County.
· Day Two: Combine with nearby Ding Village residences (living fossils of Ming and Qing Dynasty houses) or Taosi Ruins (known as “the earliest China,” exploring the capital of Yao and Shun) for a deeper journey.
4. Practical Tips
· Transportation:
· Self-driving: The most recommended way. Navigate to “Fen City Town.” It is very convenient from Linfen city or Xiangfen County.
· Public Transport: You can take a bus from Linfen or Xiangfen to “Fen City,” then walk a short distance.
· Food:
· Saozi Noodles: A Xiangfen specialty, chewy noodles with delicious minced meat sauce.
· Lamb Hotpot: Perfect for warming up on cold days.
· Youfen Rice: A unique local fermented food with a special taste, worth trying.
· Accommodation:
· Accommodation options in Fen City Town are limited. It is recommended to stay in Linfen city or Xiangfen County for more choices and better conditions.
· Best Travel Time:
· Spring and autumn (April-May, September-October): Cool and pleasant weather, ideal for strolling the ancient city.
· Blogger’s Special Reminder:
· Please come with a heart of reverence. The ancient buildings here are precious and original; do not touch or climb on cultural relics.
· Be mentally prepared that tourism facilities here are not as developed as in Pingyao, but it is this “imperfection” that preserves its truest form.
Conclusion:
Fen City is like a thread-bound book lightly covered with dust.
When you brush off the dust and open its pages, inside are the clang of swords and horses, the inheritance of culture, the bustling life of the marketplace, and above all, the pervasive, deeply ingrained aroma and sour charm of vinegar. It is not a place for a rushed visit but for quiet appreciation.
If you, like me, are obsessed with the truly ancient, then come to Fen City.