Wuwei has a profound historical heritage and vibrant cultural stories
It lacks the hustle and bustle of Dunhuang but hides a more rustic Hexi spirit. The "Galloping Horse Treading on a Flying Swallow" from the language textbooks was unearthed here, the Liangzhou alliance from history books happened again, and over a hundred Liangzhou poems were written here. This once booming city was the economic center of the Northwest, yet its current fame does not match its historical depth. It stands at the starting point of the Hexi Corridor and is an ancient capital of the Six Dynasties. Zhang Qian and Jing Ci journeyed westward from here, opening the Western Regions and building a bridge of civilization. Huo Qubing led his army to traverse and open the Hexi Corridor, the lifeline of the dynasty. Xuanzang passed through on his pilgrimage, leaving high praise for the Hexi metropolis. This is our first stop on the Hexi journey: Wuwei.
The first place to visit in Wuwei is Wushaoling, the starting point of the young general’s battlefield campaigns. It is the beginning of the Hexi Corridor, where three major plateaus converge, and also the dividing line between China’s first and second geographic steps. I originally thought it would be a short walk to the summit, but there were mountains beyond mountains. After climbing for a long time, the wind was so strong that without a hat, it was unbearable, and the mountain path seemed endless. The long climb was worth it, as the scenery of snow-capped mountains, meadows, and grazing cattle and sheep painted a beautiful picture at every step. It’s hard to imagine that ancient generals led troops over such steep paths, crossing mountains and ridges. I now find even plank roads exhausting. At the summit, gazing at the Maya Snow Mountain, we seemed to resonate with the footsteps from a thousand years ago. Breathing the cold air from the plateau alongside those generals and soldiers who expanded the territory, we felt the heroic spirit of expeditions beyond the frontier over centuries.
Heading north from Wushaoling, we finally reached the long-anticipated Tiantishan Grottoes, known as the living fossil of Chinese grottoes and hailed as the ancestor of Chinese cave art. Back then, King of Northern Liang summoned the eminent monk Tan Yao and skilled artisans to carve the caves. Later, Tan Yao was called by the Northern Wei emperor to oversee the construction of the Yungang Grottoes. The Liangzhou model pioneered by Tiantishan deeply influenced later grottoes like Yungang and Longmen. Unfortunately, due to the construction of the Huangyang Reservoir, most statues and murals were relocated for preservation, leaving only the 28-meter statue outside Cave 13. The giant Buddha sits by the water, facing a stunning view of clear water reflecting the red clouds. This place is not overly commercialized; everyone quietly takes photos and claps hands with the Buddha. Standing at the Buddha’s feet, I felt I wasn’t even as tall as one of his fingers. Despite the ravages of time, the remaining blue stone murals are still vivid. The overwhelming impact and pressure standing beneath the Buddha made us truly understand the ancient reverence for Buddha statues, a shock from the heart.
Some say half of the Tiantishan Grottoes are underwater and half in museums, so we visited the Wuwei Museum. Even the damaged Buddha heads and Bodhisattva murals here remain lifelike. We can only imagine the original complete appearance from these remnants, but it’s hard to picture how beautiful it must have been. The new museum is sparsely visited, making it feel like a private tour and perfect for photos. Here you can see the bronze Galloping Horse, the prototype of China’s tourism symbol, and the Eastern Han official’s edict and seal, showing that the elderly then could freely enter government offices without bowing and were exempt from taxes—a testament to the Chinese tradition of respecting elders. The painted lacquer wooden dove was the head of the official’s account book, equivalent to an Eastern Han version of a senior citizen card. Every exhibit in the museum is exquisite and full of surprises. This is China’s ancient unicorn called Xiezhi, with the Tang Dynasty number on it, and the shiny decorations are luodian. Even the auspicious clouds are painted like flowers, reflecting Chinese aesthetic taste. No wonder it’s a national first-class museum, with every piece telling fearless stories of the past.
A must-see in Wuwei is the Jiumoluoshi Temple. We are now at Jiumoluoshi Temple, the oldest temple in Wuwei city, with a history of over 1,600 years. This ancient temple holds the legend of a great translator. During the Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties, the eminent monk Kumarajiva came from the Western Regions and stayed in Liangzhou for 17 years, spreading Buddhism and translating scriptures. Many words we use today—world, future, love river, the other shore, heart field—were coined by him during his translation of the Book of Changes. It is said that before his passing, Kumarajiva said if every word of his translated sutras weighed 55 grams, then after his death, his tongue would turn into a relic, which is enshrined here. The temple is small but very quiet. Standing under the relic pagoda, one can almost see him building a cultural bridge between the Western Regions and Central Plains with pen and ink during turbulent times, allowing Buddhism and civilization to flourish here.
The most captivating place in Wuwei city is the Wuwei Confucian Temple, renowned alongside the Beijing Confucius Temple. It is one of the three major Confucian temples in China and the largest and best-preserved Confucius temple complex in Northwest China, known as the crown of Longyou academies. It’s truly stunning—48 plaques hang from the ceiling. From the Ming Dynasty to the Republic of China, famous people inscribed plaques here. Kangxi’s scrolls are as vigorous as pines, and the Republic’s educational plaques are as elegant as bamboo. Every visitor gazes upward for a long time. This is the scattered gate and the Zhuangyuan Bridge found in every Confucian temple. It’s not only a sacred place to worship Confucius but also an ancient imperial examination site. Even today, crossing the Zhuangyuan Bridge and stepping on the Linxinwen is a ritual for five students before their college entrance exams. I have never seen so many red ribbons. We also met the temple guardian cat, who seems omnipotent, truly the temple’s protector.
If you love adventure, you must not miss the Leitai Han Tomb in Wuwei, an authentic Eastern Han tomb path that takes you into the world of life and death from a thousand years ago. We are now at the tomb path of the Leitai Han Tomb, which slopes downward all the way. You have to crouch completely to enter; it’s very, very low. I can’t stand upright here. This narrow tomb path, only wide enough for one person, yielded the prototype of the Galloping Horse, the symbol of Chinese tourism. No wonder people say not to photograph the horse from the front—the front view is really amusing. Exiting the tomb path, the bronze chariot and horse escort outside the platform left us speechless. Dozens of bronze horses and chariots are neatly arranged, forming a magnificent underground army seemingly ready to charge into battle at any moment, recreating the majestic might of the past.
Wuwei, the first major town of the Hexi Corridor and a brilliant pearl of the Silk Road, offers more than just photo ops. It lets you read its profound historical heritage and vivid cultural stories as an everlasting Liangzhou poem while you walk through it.