Sui Suwako

When it comes to high class Japanese amenities, there is a sliding scale of quality, with the nearby sister hotel Shinyu just one step below Sui Suwako. This place is excellent, and I mean it. It might even be too fancy for your tastes if waiting for someone to retrieve your shoes before you go out makes you anxious. But if you're looking to relax and have a table side dinner and breakfast prepared for you, and if you like spacious rooms and private onsen, you will enjoy staying here. This is the pinnacle of Japanese comfort and accommodation in Kamisuwa. Oh, and when you're leaving? They'll even provide a free car to take you to the station.

The perfect Ryokan! I will return!

We intended to check out the Lake Suwa area of Nagano to view the autumn leaves, which were peaking during the time of our visit, and we couldn't think of a better option than to return to the marvelous Sui Suwako ryokan. We were pleased to find that the establishment was as delightful as we remembered it. We stayed here just a year and a half ago, so I won't go into detail regarding every aspect of our stay. Just a few things that bear repeating, however. At just 8 rooms, this ryokan offers an incredibly bespoke experience for each group of guests. Also, each of the rooms has its own in-room free-flowing Onsen (hot springs) bath. And should you want to enjoy the open-air Onsen on the roof (with an awesome view of Lake Suwa, especially at sunset), you can take a dip with members of other genders because swimsuits are not only permitted, but are available to borrow from the ryokan. Service level is very high here. As was the case last time, we were assigned a butler that tended to our room as well as our meals (which are served in a private ko****su room for each and every group of guests.) Our wonderful butler during our previous stay was on leave of absence, but we were delighted to have gotten to know the wonderful Ms. Minri Ko, who was as competent, attentive and knowledgeable as she was warm and charming. The dining experience was sublime. Not every offering was a "best ever" serving, but that's not what we were after (nor should you seek it here.) While everything really is delicious, what's more impressive is their ability to serve local dishes with local ingredients, which really adds to the overall sense of place. Soba (buckwheat noodles), Basashi (raw horsemeat), Wakasagi (Japanese Smelt from Lake Suwa) Tempura were among the highlights. Breakfast was equally imaginative and well executed - many ryokans really mail in the breakfast - they're all good (how can Japanese breakfasts not be?), but can be the same 'ol thing. At Sui Suwako, they really go the extra mile in bringing out the flavors of the local, seasonal produce and fish from the area. Yet again, we left Sui Suwako with a deeper understanding and appreciation of this part of Japan. And that's part of why we travel to far-flung places, right?