Autumn in Nanjing brings crisp air. Led by Chef A-Long, who gained fame on "Yi Fan Feng Shen," his kitchen team has entrusted the freshness of this autumn feast to late-season
Autumn in Nanjing brings crisp air. Led by Chef A-Long, who gained fame on "Yi Fan Feng Shen," his kitchen team has entrusted the freshness of this autumn feast to late-season mushrooms from the mountains.
Morels, matsutake, chicken fir mushrooms, jianshouqing, and ganbajun from the mountains of Yunnan and Guizhou are all transported to the tables of Jinling. Paired with local ingredients from the Lake and Yangtze regions, as well as Xisha bluefish, the meal unfolds with flavors that transition from light to rich. The feast is accompanied by wines from Kanaan Winery, with the starry skies of Ningxia's Helan Mountain foothills reflecting the brilliance of Jinling.
The opening dish of oil-infused chicken fir mushrooms with abalone massages the palate. The mushroom aroma is deep and rich, while the abalone is as soft and chewy as rice cake. The charred pepper purple mushrooms with Sinan century egg offer a touch of elegant spice, bringing out a smoky flavor that pairs beautifully with champagne. There is also matsutake yellow croaker tartare, pumpkin flower mushroom buns, and coral mushroom oyster cakes, bringing the freshness of both mountain and sea to the table.
We drink the Kanaan Pretty Pony dry white, which features citrus and subtle mineral notes. It perfectly balances the acidity and spice of the cold dishes, highlighting the earthy essence of the mushrooms while preserving the delicate tenderness of the seafood. Next comes a bowl of chicken and red mushroom rice oil soup, a very comforting transition. The broth is made from aged chicken, with the red mushroom providing a robust aroma, and layers of bamboo fungus floating in the thick rice oil. It is smooth and crunchy on the palate.
As the feast progresses, the meat dishes take center stage. The mushroom-infused char siu is a limited global release, with a rich, sweet finish. The truffle-stuffed pork knuckle with quail leg is packed with collagen. At this point, we are served the Lan Yu dry red, which has a gentle red fruit aroma with a hint of smoke and soft tannins. The chef is adept at balancing flavors, using nostalgic local ingredients like "August melon" and winter melon frost to neutralize the richness, keeping the pace just right.
The true highlight of the feast lies in the main courses: clear soup with chicken fir mushrooms and bluefish, chanterelle shrimp roe noodles with red crab, and spicy braised aged yellow croaker with tiger palm mushrooms. The flavors build step by step. The floral and mineral notes of the Heritage Peak dry white keep the palate sharp and sensitive.
For me, the most memorable dishes were the stir-fried alpine beef with white jianshouqing, the lion-head goose liver with smoked meat and red jianshouqing, and the goose oil ganbajun with osmanthus dragon fish tendon. Stir-fried over high heat, the mushroom aroma explodes. The goose oil, goose liver, and alpine beef create a rich, decadent experience, while the bold aroma of the ganbajun adds a wild, mountain-fresh intensity. This is paired with the Chi Lu Zhu dry red, which has a solid structure with notes of black berries and spices, perfectly anchoring the intensity of the dish and allowing the wild mushroom flavors to be fully released.
Beyond its reputation for duck, Nanjing also takes its goose seriously. I still remember eating a plump, tender salted goose here as a child, served with a spoonful of spiced goose oil that added a savory, sweet finish. The goose oil rice at The Ritz-Carlton, Nanjing yesterday, topped with crispy-skinned, tender roast goose and rice infused with the essence of rich goose oil, is something I will remember for a year. This course is not paired with wine, but rather a passion fruit sparkling mint tea. The sweet, tart, and refreshing sip washes away the oils and tannins, giving the palate a moment to breathe.
The dessert is a fusion of East and West. The top layer is a mushroom and bacon rice cake, while the bottom is a fried rice sabayon, served with fresh grapes picked from Baguazhou, providing a sweet conclusion to the feast.
After finishing the meal, one can see the infinite possibilities of mushrooms. From cold dishes and soups to spicy and stir-fried preparations, the full spectrum of freshness and intensity is explored. The wine pairings were spot on throughout, cutting through spice or richness as needed, with one goal: to let the quality ingredients speak for themselves.
Just like the popular management style of General Manager Alex Wang, there is a perfect balance of control and freedom, leaving ample room for the hotel's dining experience to reach the next level.