Biancheng Chatong | A Slow-Life Ancient Town "Stepping into Three Provinces with One Foot"
**1. Key Highlights: Why Visit Biancheng Chatong?**
1. **The Prototype of "Border Town," a Pure World in Shen Congwen's Writing**
- Chatong is the prototype of the "Chatong Town" in Shen Congwen's novel *Border Town*. The ferry story of Cuicui and her grandfather is authentically reenacted here, preserving the most rustic Xiangxi customs.
- **Lala Ferry** (Free): Still connected by a single steel wire across the river, the ferryman uses a bamboo pole to pull the ferry, offering the most original way to cross the river.
2. **Junction of Three Provinces, See Three Provinces at a Glance**
- Chatong is located at the intersection of Hunan, Chongqing, and Guizhou provinces. Standing on the **"Three-Province Boundary Marker"** (a 10-minute walk), you can simultaneously overlook the scenery of all three provinces.
3. **A Border Town Like a Landscape Painting, Quieter than Fenghuang**
- Without excessive commercialization, it retains stilted buildings, bluestone paths, and black canopy boats. In the morning mist, it feels like stepping into an ink painting.
4. **A Paradise of Folk Customs and Cuisine**
- Experience Miao and Tujia cultures and taste authentic Xiangxi delicacies such as **rice tofu, jiao jiao fish, and firewood smoked bacon**.
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**2. Transportation Guide: How to Get to Chatong?**
**1. Major Transport (Arriving at Xiangxi/Chongqing/Guizhou)**
- **By Air**: The nearest airports are **Tongren Fenghuang Airport** (about 2.5 hours by car) or **Zhangjiajie Hehua Airport** (about 4 hours by car).
- **By High-Speed Rail/Train**:
- **Chongqing Xiushan Station** (nearest high-speed rail station, about 1 hour by car) → Take a bus/carpool to Chatong (frequent services, ticket price about 15-20 RMB).
- **Hunan Jishou Station** (about 3 hours by car) → Transfer to a bus to Huayuan County, then transfer to Chatong.
- **Guizhou Tongren South Station** (about 2.5 hours by car) → Transfer to Songtao County, then proceed to Chatong.
**2. Local Transport**
- **Within Chatong Ancient Town**: Walkable, attractions are concentrated (Lala Ferry, White Pagoda, Sanbuguan Island, etc.).
- **From Huayuan County/Xiushan County**:
- **Bus**: Huayuan County → Chatong (about 1.5 hours, ticket about 20 RMB); Xiushan County → Chatong (about 1 hour, ticket about 15 RMB).
- **Carpool/Charter**: Taxi from Huayuan/Xiushan to Chatong costs about 100-150 RMB (carpool available).
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**3. 2 Days 1 Night Essential Itinerary**
**Day 1: Slow Time in Border Town, Feel the Tenderness of *Border Town***
**Morning**:
- **Arrive at Chatong** (recommended to arrive in the morning to avoid crowds).
- **Stroll through the Ancient Town**: Bluestone paths, stilted buildings, old post office (you can send a vintage postcard).
- **Lala Ferry Experience** (free): Take the ferry to the opposite bank (Hong'an Town, Chongqing), experiencing Cuicui’s way of crossing the river.
**Noon**:
- **Lunch Recommendations**:
- **Rice Tofu** (street stalls in the ancient town, sour and spicy, appetizing).
- **Jiao Jiao Fish** (local river fish, fresh and flavorful).
**Afternoon**:
- **Three-Province Boundary Marker** (10-minute walk): Step across three provinces with one foot, perfect for photos.
- **White Pagoda** (prototype of "Bixi Zhuo" in the novel): Climb up to overlook the ancient town and Qingshui River.
- **Hong'an Ancient Town** (Chongqing side): Explore the old street, visit **Hongcha Ancient Ferry**, and the **Liu-Deng Army Southwest Campaign Memorial**.
**Evening**:
- **Night Tour on Qingshui River** (optional boat ride to enjoy the night view).
- **Accommodation Recommendations**: Stay in a guesthouse within the ancient town, recommended **Biancheng Inn** or **Riverside Room near Lala Ferry**.
**Day 2: Mountains, Water, and Folk Customs, Deep Experience**
**Morning**:
- **Early Morning Mist Viewing** (Chatong in the early morning is most poetic, with mist swirling over the river).
- **Sanbuguan Island** (located at the junction of three provinces, accessible by boat, learn about local customs).
- **Cycling or Hiking**: Ride along the Qingshui River to enjoy pastoral scenery.
**Noon**:
- **Lunch Recommendations**:
- **Firewood Smoked Bacon** (local farmhouse dish, fragrant but not greasy).
- **Blood Rice Duck** (Xiangxi specialty, soft and flavorful).
**Afternoon**:
- **Buy Souvenirs Before Departure**:
- **Miao Silver Jewelry, Batik Cloth** (available in small shops in the ancient town).
- **Biancheng Specialties**: Dried kiwi, Xiangxi smoked bacon.
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**4. Food Highlights: Must-Eats in Border Town!**
1. **Rice Tofu** (a must! Sour, spicy, smooth, perfect with chili oil).
2. **Jiao Jiao Fish** (wild fish from Qingshui River, usually cooked with pickled vegetables, fresh and without fishy taste).
3. **Firewood Smoked Bacon** (smoked native pork, delicious stir-fried with garlic scapes or steamed).
4. **Blood Rice Duck** (made from glutinous rice and duck blood, unique texture).
5. **You Baba** (fried snack, crispy, fragrant, and sweet).
**Recommended Restaurants**:
- **Ancient Town Old Wharf Restaurant** (popular with locals, authentic rice tofu and fish dishes).
- **Biancheng Renjia** (riverside restaurant, suitable for dinner).
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**5. Accommodation Recommendations**
1. **Biancheng Inn** (center of the ancient town, riverside, cost-effective).
2. **Lala Ferry Riverside Guesthouse** (window views of the river, great for photos).
3. **Hong'an Ancient Town Guesthouse** (Chongqing side, quiet and affordable).
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**6. Traveler Tips**
✅ **Best Season**: **Spring and Autumn (March-May, September-November)**, pleasant climate, avoid rainy season (summer may have flooding).
✅ **Tickets**: Chatong Ancient Town is **free**, some attractions (like Sanbuguan Island boat) charge separately.
✅ **Clothing**: Comfortable shoes recommended, many bluestone paths in the ancient town.
✅ **Language**: Local dialect is Xiangxi, but Mandarin communication is generally smooth.
✅ **Safety**: The ancient town is very safe, but avoid remote riverside areas at night.