Tonggu Tianzhu Peak: A Stunning Danxia Secret Realm
In Tonggu County, located on the western border of Jiangxi Province, there stands a solitary peak known as Tianzhu Peak, hailed as the "Number One Pillar of Jiangnan." This 401-meter-high mountain, with its unique Danxia landform, beautiful lake and mountain scenery, and rich historical and cultural heritage, attracts countless visitors eager to explore. I was fortunate to set foot on this magical land and embark on a profound dialogue with nature and history.
First Impressions of Tianzhu Peak: Awe and Amazement Combined
At dawn, when the first rays of sunlight bathe Tianzhu Peak, the entire mountain seems to be gilded with a golden glow, appearing especially solemn and mysterious. We boarded a boat and slowly sailed from Jiulong Lake toward Tianzhu Peak. Jiulong Lake is broad and elongated, embraced by green mountains on both sides, with crystal-clear waters. As the boat moved forward, the lake and mountain scenery gradually unfolded like a beautiful painting slowly revealing itself before our eyes.
After disembarking, we first visited Elephant Trunk Hill. Located to the left of Tianzhu Peak, Elephant Trunk Hill is the second tallest stone peak after Tianzhu Peak. Viewed head-on, it resembles a narrow sky slit; from the side, it looks like an elephant’s trunk, lifelike and astonishing. Although it appears somewhat rugged and abstract compared to the Elephant Trunk Hill in Guilin, this primitive beauty showcases the marvels of nature’s craftsmanship.
Climbing Tianzhu Peak: Challenge and Beauty Together
We ascended the winding mountain path, gradually approaching Tianzhu Peak. The path was shaded by lush trees and filled with the fragrance of flowers, refreshing the mind and spirit. Although the trail was steep in places, each step was full of challenge and anticipation. Along the way, we passed Ling Shi An and Yixian Tian, each spot captivating us deeply.
Ling Shi An is a natural rock cave shelter formed by huge boulders on the mountainside. Inside, it is neatly arranged without feeling cramped. Spring water flows down the cliff into a small pool for drinking, and ancient cliff inscriptions can be found on the boulders. Since the Southern Song Dynasty, incense has burned continuously here. People have lived peacefully under the blessing of the "spiritual stone," creating a tranquil and harmonious atmosphere.
Yixian Tian is a narrow passage formed by two giant rocks standing opposite each other, with the narrowest point only 0.8 meters wide, revealing just a sliver of sky above. Passing through Yixian Tian feels like entering a new world, with the scenery opening up and refreshing the soul.
Finally, we reached the summit of Tianzhu Peak. Standing at the top, we gazed far and wide: the Mufu Mountain Range rolled like waves, and Tonggu County spread out like a chessboard. The mountain breeze carried the sound of pine waves into our ears, making us feel as if we were in a fairyland. At this moment, I truly experienced the grandeur and majesty of "looking down on all other mountains."
Exploring Tianzhu Peak: A Blend of History and Culture
Tianzhu Peak is not only naturally beautiful but also rich in historical and cultural significance. Legend has it that Zhang Guolao, one of the Eight Immortals, once passed through here. While tying his donkey and emptying his purse at "Shoe Drying Point," he accidentally lost his magical conch in the grass. Strangely, the conch fell to the mortal world and grew rapidly with the wind, reportedly growing a thousand units a day and breaking through the sky in ten days. The Jade Emperor was alarmed and sent the Thunder God to subdue it to ensure the safety of Heaven. On that day, the wind rose, clouds gathered, the sky darkened, heavy rain poured, and thunder struck, splitting a large hole in the spiritual stone’s belly, stopping its growth and forming Tianzhu Peak.
Besides this beautiful legend, at the foot of Tianzhu Peak stands the thousand-year-old Tianzhu Temple. Founded during the Tang Dynasty’s Zhenguan era, it was once one of the "Three Great Zen Forests of Jiangnan," alongside Donglin Temple in Lushan and Yuelu Temple in Changsha. The temple houses statues of Maitreya Buddha and Shakyamuni, as well as precious artifacts like the "Record of the Renovation of Tianzhu Temple" written by Li Rongbi, a Qing Dynasty Tonggu scholar. These relics not only witness the temple’s historical changes but also reflect the deep bond between the local people and the temple.
Savoring Tonggu Cuisine: A Feast for the Palate
After a full day of touring, our stomachs began to rumble. We headed to a farmhouse restaurant within the scenic area to taste local delicacies. Tonggu’s cuisine mainly features mountain treasures and wild flavors, with unique tastes that linger in the memory. We ordered braised pork, roasted rooster, stir-fried rice noodles, and amaranth soup among other specialties. These dishes were not only delicious but also nutritious, satisfying our appetites fully.
Farewell to Tianzhu Peak: Reluctance and Fondness
Time flew by, and soon our journey to Tianzhu Peak was coming to an end. Standing on the boat, I looked back once more at this beautiful land, my heart filled with reluctance and affection. Tianzhu Peak, you are like a gentle lady, conquering every visitor’s heart with your beauty and kindness. Here, I felt the magic and charm of nature, witnessed the vicissitudes of history, and savored the richness and depth of local cuisine.
I know this farewell is only for the sake of a future reunion. I believe that one day, I will return to this land to experience your beauty and warmth once again. Tianzhu Peak, you are forever the poetry and distant place in my heart, and I will cherish your beauty forever.
1. Practical Information
Transportation
- Self-driving (recommended): From Nanchang, about 145 km, approximately 2 hours. Take Chang-Tong Expressway then Da-Guang Expressway to Tonggu Daixi exit; from Changsha, about 150 km, approximately 2.5 hours, via Chang-Chang Expressway to Tianzhu Peak exit. Navigate to "Tonggu Tianzhu Peak Scenic Area." Free parking is available at the entrance, convenient for parking.
- Public Transport: Take a bus opposite Tonggu Bus Station to Dadun Town, then taxi to the scenic area. Visitors from other places can take a train or bus to Tonggu County, then transfer to township buses. Public transport is relatively inconvenient; self-driving is recommended.
Tickets and Opening Hours
- Opening Hours: Summer (May-September) 8:00-17:00; Winter (October-April) 8:00-16:00. The full visit takes about 4-6 hours; early arrival to avoid crowds is advised.
- Ticket Prices: Scenic area ticket 60 RMB/person + boat ticket 50 RMB/person (combo ticket about 110 RMB, cheaper if booked online one day in advance). Some aerial and water activities are charged separately.
- Discounts: Children under 1.2 meters (not included) free admission and boat ticket; children 1.2-1.4 meters, full-time students, and seniors aged 60-64 with valid ID get half-price tickets; seniors 65 and above, active military personnel, and disabled persons with valid ID are free for the scenic area ticket, only paying 50 RMB for the boat ticket.
2. Core Attractions
Must-See Natural Wonders
- Tianzhu Peak + Jiulong Lake (core highlights): The soul of the scenic area, the 401-meter-high Tianzhu Peak is surrounded by water on three sides. Its Danxia red rock resembles a sky-piercing jade pillar, said to be the magical conch lost by Zhang Guolao of the Eight Immortals. The climb to the summit takes only 30 minutes; the last section, called the "Heavenly Road," is steep but not difficult. The summit viewing platform offers a panoramic view of Jiulong Lake’s "giant dragon lying on the waves."
- Ling Shi An Blessing: A thousand-year-old ancient temple hidden in a rock cave on the mountainside of Tianzhu Peak, founded in the Southern Song Dynasty. Su Dongpo once wrote a poem: "Clear water surrounds, spring and stone shine through, a noble person dwells freely inside." The stone path to the temple echoes with footsteps, surrounded by bamboo groves, with a sweet mountain spring (legendary for medicinal properties). The Guanyin Hall inside is solemn and heavily frequented by worshippers, making it an excellent place for quiet prayer and blessing.
- Jiulong Waterfall and Love Valley: Jiulong Waterfall is 78 meters high, with silver chains of water cascading down, often forming rainbows on sunny days. The roaring water sounds like a symphony. Love Valley winds along a creek with scattered waterfalls and a green stone plank road weaving through dense forest. Only the last section to the summit is steep; the rest is easy walking, taking about an hour round trip.
- Waterline Sky: A secret Danxia canyon where boats sail through, with steep rock walls on both sides and only a narrow strip of sky visible above. The interplay of light and shadow reveals nature’s extraordinary craftsmanship.
3. Specialty Cuisine
- Local Signature Dishes: Ecological fish hotpot and steamed fish at Jiulong Lake Fish Restaurant and Cormorant Mouth Fish Restaurant, with tender meat free of muddy taste, are must-tries. Also, Hakka stuffed tofu and stir-fried cured meat with mountain bamboo shoots are savory and perfect with rice, authentically local.
- Snacks: Tonggu Bao Yuan (soft, fragrant, richly filled), Ai Mi Guo (available around Qingming Festival, fragrant and refreshing), and Hakka Lei Cha can be found at farmhouse restaurants around the scenic area or on the streets of Dadun Town. Meals cost about 30-50 RMB per person for a satisfying experience.
- Souvenirs: Tonggu dried bamboo shoots, Hakka cured meat, and wild dried kiwi, all naturally sourced with unique flavors, are great to take home and share.