Let's clarify the location first. It is in the province of Teruel, 38 km south of Teruel, and a 40-minute drive away. It belongs to Aragon and has nothing to do with Castile. Most people who get this wrong are likely confusing it with the villages near Cuenca.
There is no direct train. Take a train to Teruel, and cover the rest by road, and it's a 3-hour drive from Madrid. The last few dozen kilometers are winding mountain roads with sharp turns, so it's easier to drive during the day.
The walls and streets are accessible all day, and there are no opening or closing times. The main body of the wall was built between the 10th–12th centuries, a project from the Taifa Kingdom era, with stones stacked one by one and small stone chips stuffed into the gaps. There are several round towers on the wall, with tops added later. There is a gap in the corner of the wall that has been patched with new stones, which are lighter in color than the surrounding ones.
It was listed as a national monument in 1961. It is on the tentative list for World Heritage status, but its name cannot yet be found on the World Heritage List, a fact often written incorrectly. Additionally, it is on the list of an association that connects the country's most beautiful villages into a network. The plaque is nailed to the outer wall of the town hall; the text is small, so it's easy to miss when passing by.
The old town hangs on the hillside. The houses are stone and earth-colored with red-tiled roofs. The alleys are narrow, requiring two people to turn sideways to pass each other. There are many steps, making it inconvenient to drag a suitcase, so I simply left my suitcase in the car and went up with just a backpack.
The way to walk it is to go uphill from the parking lot at the foot of the mountain, pass through the archway into the old town, go all the way up to the base of the wall, and then follow the wall for half a circle. There is a walkable path outside the wall where you can see the entire expanse of red roofs and the valley below.
Entering from the archway, there is first a straight street paved with stones that are hard on the feet. On both sides of the street are doorways with iron fixtures nailed to them, shaped in pairs. Some families move their chairs to the doorway to bask in the sun, taking a look at whoever passes by. A lamp hangs in the hallway, lit even during the day, and a stone slab on the wall is engraved with text, though the year is worn away and illegible.
Arriving after 8:00 AM, the entrance to the town hadn't woken up yet. The door of a van was open, someone was unloading goods, and boxes were sliding off the truck, piled at the base of the wall. At the base of the wall, there is a shallow ditch. Water is channeled down from the mountain, flowing thinly, with a sound like someone talking nearby.
It was foggy on the day I set off. After entering the mountains, the fog became thicker, and the taillights of the car in front were visible intermittently. It didn't clear until after passing through two tunnels.
The old town is not large, and you can walk around it in 2 hours at a leisurely pace. If you want to sit down, the benches in the square are wet, so you have to wait for the sun to dry the moisture.
Pay attention to the museums. The Diocesan Museum is only open on weekends in November. You need to make an appointment at other times. The handwritten hours on the wooden sign at the entrance differ from the versions circulating online. Whether another small museum is open depends on whether there are people there that day. I passed by twice. It was open once and closed once, so it's hard to say.
You need to book accommodation early. In November, most guesthouses in town are closed, with shutters pulled down and signs posted on the doors. Book in advance. If you can't, stay in Teruel and drive up for 40 minutes, or enter the town before dawn.
There isn't much to eat. The open restaurants can be counted one by one. A serving of stew with bread costs about €16. The soup is served first, and it's hot. The bread is freshly sliced, with a hard crust.
In November, the temperature here is 3–13°C, with a large difference between morning and evening. Mountain roads may be icy, and shaded curves are wet in the morning, making them slippery for tires, so keep your speed low. When the sun comes out at noon, the stone walls are warm, and you can rest your hand on them for a while.
Standing on the path outside the wall, you can see the village on the next hill, a patch of white dots and red tiles. The wind is strong, so you have to raise your voice to speak. There is another spot on the slope outside the city where, if you stand there, you can see the whole city hanging on the rocks. You have to hold onto your hat.
There was a cat crouching on a windowsill in the alley. As I approached, it jumped down and scurried through a hole in the corner of the wall.
It gets dark around 5:45 PM. It gets dark quickly, and once it does, only a few lights remain in the alleys, with the wind swirling inside.
The parking lot is small. It's easy to park in November, but another batch of local cars arrives on weekends. Driving out in the evening, the streetlights below stretch into a string.
The old town is quiet at night, and footsteps carry far. A light is on in one window, and a TV is playing inside.