https://au.trip.com/moments/detail/sydney-236-6431258/
zhenmeiqu.

What is the feeling of surfing in Australia This is my first real experience of surfing myself. Even if the coach's detailed explanation is thoroughly familiar, I will try to look forward to the heights, keep the body in the middle of the board, don't be nervous, and enjoy the process. But when it was really in the water, it was still tense when it was on the surfboard. If the waves are so close, it will still make people nervous, especially when the big waves come in, they need to eat a few mouthfuls of water. But as long as you adjust your mind to enjoy it, you will find that both the body and the board can float with the waves, which is actually a very interesting thing. For the first time, I didn't stand up at all. Ignore the action that the coach said, and I took a shot lately and poured it into the water. The second time, barely stood up. But not too good to maintain balance, or fell. For the third time, I finally mastered all the skills I had said before. The feeling of standing on the board and rushing to the wave is really too cool and too free. At this moment, I finally understood the meaning of surfing. I also understand why Australians like surfing so much. Because surfing is a sport full of conquest and freedom!
Posted: Sep 25, 2019
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