#easytravelpost
Cala Cartoe is a granite-cove cluster 6 km north of Cala Gonone (not the limestone south gulf—different rock, different moss), driveable via the Dorgali→Cala Cartoe road, free parking, three small bays (Cartoe, Osalla, S'Abba Druche). I drove from Cala Gonone at 07:00 in June, had Cartoe alone.
The cliff moss is the granite rounded outcrops: Polytrichum and Hylocomium in the joint-cracks where rainwater pools, Fissidens on the pink-grey granite seep (granite holds moss differently—acidic, slower, greyer-green than limestone), and the cliff above the north bay has Sphagnum in the heath hollow behind the scrub. I sat on a granite whale-back at 07:30, the moss cool under my palm, the sea flat, a gull on the next rock. Cartoe has a summer kiosk (cash, pricey panini), no QR cap, no boats needed—local secret versus the south-gulf circus.
Mistake: I came expecting limestone cliffs like Goloritzé and was confused—Cartoe is granite, lower, gentler, better for kids; don't bring climbing dreams. Another: I drove the last 1 km of dirt in a sedan after rain and bottomed out; dry-day or 4×4. Would you drive Cala Cartoe for the granite-moss bays at 07:00 and skip the boat queues, or commit the south-gulf Zodiac instead?